314 



Arrival at Manilla. Country around 

 Manilla. Situation of the city. 



MANILLA. 



City of Manilla. 



CHAPTER XXXVI. 



MANILLA. 



ARRIVAL AT MANILLA VIEW OF THE CITY LANDING AT MANILLA ANCHORAGE CITY AND ITS BUILDINGS ITS 

 POPULATION WANT OF FACILITIES FOR REPAIRS CITY GOVERNMENT DISCOVERY AND OCCUPATION OF THE 

 PHILIPPINES POLICY OF THE CONQUERORS GEOLOGICAL FEATURES OP THE ISLANDS PRODUCTIONS AND 

 AGRICULTURE AGRICULTURAL IMPLEMENTS USE OF THE BUFFALO CULTURE OF RICE MANILLA HEMP 

 COFFEE SUGAR COTTON MODE OF TAKING PRODUCE TO MARKET PROFITS OF AGRICULTURE LABOUR 

 RAVAGES OF LOCUSTS INHABITANTS NATIVE TRIBES POLICY OF THE GOVERNMENT CAPABILITIES FOR COM 

 MERCE MILITARY STRENGTH INTERNAL DISTURBANCES VISIT TO THE GOVERNOR TENURE AND EMOLU- 

 MENTS OF HIS OFFICE ROYAL CIGAR MANUFACTORY MANUFACTURES PINA OCCUPATIONS OF THE HIGHER 

 CLASSES MARRIAGES DRIVE ON THE PRADO THEATRE TERTULIA DRESS OF THE NATIVES COCK-FIGHTING 

 MARKET ENVIRONS OF THE CITY CAMPO SANTO SYSTEM OF GOVERNMENT EXPEDITION TO THE INTERIOR 

 RETURN TO MANILLA PREPARATIONS FOR SAILING DEPARTURE FROM MANILLA. 



AT daylight on the 13th of January, 1842, we were 

 again under way, with a light air, and at nine 

 o'clock reached the roadstead, where we anchored 

 in six fathoms water, with good holding-ground. 



A number of vessels were lying in the roads, 

 among which were several Americans loading 

 with hemp. There was also a large English East 

 Indiaman, manned by Lascars, whose noise ren- 

 dered her more like a floating Bedlam than any 

 thing else to which I can liken it. 



The view of the city and country around Ma- 

 nilla partakes both of a Spanish and an Oriental 

 character. The sombre and heavy-looking churches, 

 with their awkward towers; the long lines of bat- 

 teries mounted with heavy camion; the massive 

 houses, with ranges of balconies; and the light and 

 airy cottage, elevated on posts, situated in the 

 luxuriant groves of tropical trees, all excite a 

 desire to become better acquainted with the 

 country. 



Manilla is situated on an extensive plain, gradu- 

 ally swelling into distant hills, beyond which, 

 again, mountains rise in the background, to the 

 height of several thousand feet. The latter are 

 apparently clothed with vegetation to their sum- 

 mits. The city is in strong contrast to this luxu- 

 riant scenery, bearing evident marks of decay, 

 particularly in the churches, whose steeples and 

 tile roofs have a dilapidated look. The site of the 

 city does not appear to have been well chosen, 

 it having apparently been selected entirely for the 

 convenience of commerce, and the communication 

 that the outlet of the lake affords for the batteaux 

 that transport the produce from the shores of the 

 Laguna de Bay to the city. 



There are many arms or branches to this stream, 

 which have been converted into canals; and almost 

 any part of Manilla may now be reached in a 

 banca. 



In the afternoon, in company with Captain Hud- 

 son, I paid my first visit to Manilla. The anchor- 

 age considered safest for large ships is nearly three 

 miles from the shore, but smaller vessels may lie 

 much nearer, and even enter the canal; a facility 

 of which a number of these take advantage, to 

 accomplish any repairs they may have occasion to 

 make. 



The canal, however, is generally filled with 

 coasting vessels, batteaux from the lake, and 



lighters for the discharge of the vessels lying in 

 the roads. The bay of Manilla is safe, excepting 

 during the change of the monsoons, when it is sub- 

 ject to the typhoons of the China Seas, within 

 whose range it lies. These blow at times with 

 much force, and cause great damage. Foreign 

 vessels have, however, kept this anchorage, and 

 rode out these storms in safety; but native as well 

 as Spanish vessels seek at these times the port of 

 Cavite, about three leagues to the south-west, at 

 the entrance of the bay, which is perfectly secure. 

 Here the government dockyard is situated, and this 

 harbour is consequently the resort of the few gun- 

 boats and galleys that are stationed here. 



The entrance to the canal or river Pasig is three 

 hundred feet wide, and is enclosed between two 

 well-constructed piers, which extend for some dis- 

 tance into the bay. On the end of one of these 

 is the lighthouse, and on the other a guard-house. 

 The walls of these piers are about four feet above 

 ordinary high water, and include the natural chan- 

 nel of the river, whose currents sets out with 

 some force, particularly when the ebb is making in 

 the bay. 



The suburbs, or Binondo quarter, contain more 

 inhabitants than the city itself, and is the com- 

 mercial town. They have all the stir and life 

 incident to a large population actively engaged in 

 trade, and in this respect the contrast with the 

 city proper is great. 



The city of Manilla is built in the form of a 

 large segment of a circle, having the chord of the 

 segment on the river : the whole is strongly forti- 

 fied with walls and ditches. The houses are sub- 

 stantially built after the fashion of the mother 

 country. Within the walls are the governor's 

 palace, custom-house, treasury, admiralty, several 

 churches, convents, and charitable institutions, a 

 university, and the barracks for the troops ; it also 

 contains some public squares, on one of which is a 

 bronze statue of Charles IV. 



The city is properly deemed the court resi- 

 dence of these islands ; and all those attached 

 to the government, or who wish to be considered 

 as of the higher circle, reside here; but foreigners 

 are not permitted to do so. The houses in the 

 city are generally of stone, plastered, and white 

 or yellow washed on the outside. They are only 

 two stories high, and in consequence cover a 



