336 



Mangsee Islands. Surveys made. 



SOOLOO. 



Island of Balambangan. 



watchfulness and constant anxiety ; the hidden 

 shoals and reefs, and the sweep of the tide, which 

 leave him no control over his vessel. 



Through the night, which was exceedingly dark, 

 we sounded every twenty minutes, but found no 

 bottom; and at daylight on the 7th, we made the 

 islands of Cagayan Sooloo, in latitude 7 3' 30" N., 

 longitude 118 37' E. The tide or current was 

 passing the islands to the west-south-west, three- 

 quarters of a mile per hour; we had soundings of 

 seventy-five fathoms. Cagayan Sooloo has a plea- 

 sant appearance from the sea, and may be tei-med 

 a high island. It is less covered with under- 

 growth and mangrove-bushes than the neighbour- 

 ing islands, and the reefs are comparatively small. 

 It has fallen off in importance; and by comparing 

 former a'ccounts with those I received, and from 

 its present aspect, it would seem that it has de- 

 creased both in population and products. Its caves 

 formerly supplied a large quantity of edible birds'- 

 nests; large numbers of cattle were to be found 

 upon it; and its cultivation was carried on to some 

 extent. These articles of commerce are not so 

 much attended to at the present time, and the 

 biche-de-mar and tortoise-shell, formerly brought 

 hither, are now carried to other places. There is 

 a small anchorage on the west side, but we did not 

 visit it. There are no dangers near these small 

 islands that may not be guarded against. Our 

 survey extended only to their size and situation, as 

 I deemed it my duty to devote all the remainder 

 of the time I had to spare to the Straits of Ba- 

 labac. 



At 9 A.M. of the 8th, we made the Mangsee 

 Islands ahead of us, and likewise Balabac to the 

 north, and Balambangan to the south. Several 

 sand-banks and extensive reefs were also seen 

 between them. On seeing the ground on which 

 we had to operate, of which the published charts 

 give no idea whatever, I determined to proceed, 

 and take a central position with the ship under the 

 Mangsee Islands; but in order not to lose time, I 

 hoisted out and dropped two boats, under Lieute- 

 nant Perry, to survey the first sand-bank we came 

 to, which lies a few miles to the eastward of these 

 islands, with orders to effect this duty and join me 

 at the anchorage, or find a shelter under the lee of 

 the islands. 



At half-past 2 P.M. we anchored near the reef, 

 in thirty-six fathoms water. I thought myself 

 fortunate in getting bottom, as the reefs on closing 

 with them seemed to indicate but little appearance 

 of it. 



The rest of the day was spent in preparing the 

 boats for our operations. I now felt the want of 

 the tender. Although, in the absence of this ves- 

 sel, great exposure was necessary to effect this 

 survey, I found both officers and men cheerful and 

 willing. The parties were organized, the first to 

 proceed to the north, towards Balabac Island, to 

 survey the intermediate shoals and reefs, under 

 Lieutenant Emmons and Mr. Totten; the second 

 to the south, under Lieutenants Perry and Budd ; 

 and Mr. Hammersly for the survey of the shoals 

 of Balambangan and Banguey, and their reefs. 

 The examination of the Mangsee Islands, and the 

 reefs adjacent, with the astronomical and magnetic 

 observations, &c., devolved on myfeelf and those 

 who remained on board the ship. 



The weather was watched with anxiety, and 



turned out disagreeable, heavy showers and strong 

 winds prevailing; notwithstanding, the boats were 

 despatched, after being as well protected against it 

 as possible. We flattered ourselves that these 

 extensive reefs would produce a fine harvest of 

 shells; but, although every exertion was made in 

 the search, we did not add as many to our collec- 

 tions as we anticipated. Some land-shells, how- 

 ever, were found that we little expected to meet 

 with, for many of the trees were covered with 

 them, and on cutting them down, large quantities 

 were easily obtained. Mr. Peale shot several 

 birds, among which was a Nicobar pigeon ; some 

 interesting plants and corals were also added. On 

 the island a large quantity of drift-wood was found, 

 which with that which is growing affords ample 

 supplies of fuel for ships. No fresh water is to be 

 had, except by digging, the island being but a few 

 feet above high-water mark. 



Although the time was somewhat unfavourable, 

 Lieutenant Emmons and party executed their 

 orders within the time designated, and met with 

 no other obstructions than the inclemency of the 

 weather. This was not, however, the case with 

 Lieutenant Perry, who, near a small beach on the 

 island of Balambangan, encountered some Sooloos, 

 who were disposed to attack him. The natives, no 

 doubt, were under the impression that the boats 

 were from some shipwrecked vessel. They were 

 all well armed, and apparently prepared to take 

 advantage of the party if possible; but, by the pru- 

 dence and forbearance of this officer, collision was 

 avoided, and his party saved from an attack. 



The island of Balambangan was obtained from 

 the Sooloos for a settlement and place of deposit, 

 by the East India Company, who took possession of 

 it in 1773. Its situation off the northern end of 

 Borneo, near the fertile district of that island, its 

 central position, and its two fine ports, offered 

 great advantages for commerce, and for its becom- 

 ing a great entrepot for the riches of this archi- 

 pelago. Troops, and stores of all kinds, were sent 

 from India; numbers of Chinese and Malays were 

 induced to settle; and Mr. Herbert, one of the 

 council of Bencoolen, was appointed governor. It 

 had been supposed to be a healthy place, as the 

 island was elevated, and therefore probably free 

 from malaria; but in 1775 the native troops from 

 India became much reduced from sickness, and the 

 post consequently much weakened. This, with the 

 absence of the cruisers from the harbour, afforded 

 a favourable opportunity for its capture; and the 

 wealth that it was supposed to contain created an 

 inducement that proved too great for the hordes of 

 marauding pirates to resist. Choosing their time, 

 they rushed upon the sentries, put them to death, 

 took possession of the guns, and turned them 

 against the garrison, only a few of whom made 

 their escape on board of a small vessel. The booty 

 in goods and valuables was said to have been very 

 large, amounting to nearly four hundred thousand 

 pounds sterling. 



As the principal objects of my visit were to as- 

 certain the disposition and resources of the Sooloos 

 for trade, and to examine the straits leading into 

 the Sooloo seas, in order to facilitate the communi- 

 cation with China, by avoiding on the one hand the 

 eastern route, and on the other the dangers of the 

 Palawan Passage, it may be as well to give the 

 result of the latter inquiry. 



