Bridge at Singapore. 



SINGAPORE. 



Impressions on landing. 



3.39 



person who has attempted the cultivation of sugar 

 at Singapore, and for his success he was awarded 

 the gold medal of the Calcutta Agricultural 

 Society. 



As we passed through the vessels with which 

 the roads were crowded on our way to the shore, 

 the hum of voices was plainly audible, particularly 

 from the Chinese junks, which seemed not unlike 

 a human hive. On reaching the mouth of the 

 river, as was to be expected, the crowd thickened, 

 and the way became more and more obstructed, 

 until we were fairly jammed among the sampans, 

 with their crowded population. The river does 

 not exceed two hundred and fifty feet in width. It 

 is shallow at its mouth, and passes through the 

 centre, or rather divides the old from the new 

 town ; these are connected by a wooden bridge. 

 As far up as the bridge, which is about one- 

 third of a mile from the entrance, the river 

 is of various widths, and its banks have been 

 carefully built up with stone, having steps oc- 

 casionally for the convenience of landing from 

 the boats. A large population is on the river, 

 dwelling in the sampans, which are all crowded 

 with men, women, and children, the latter naked, 

 and frolicking in and out of the water at plea- 

 sure. These boats are ranged in rows on each 

 side of the passage towards the bridge, and are 

 confined by stakes stuck in the bottom. As may 

 be well imagined, there are frequent accidents 

 and misadventures, that call for the exercise of 

 the lungs of this crowded multitude, yet during 

 the many opportunities I had of viewing them, 

 both by day and night, I have seldom seen a set of 

 people apparently so contented. 



We landed at the bridge, near which is the 

 office of our consul, in a large quadrangular build- 

 ing, one side of which faces the river. The terms 

 of old and new town promise a difference of archi- 

 tecture as well as inhabitants, which they amply 

 fulfil. The former occupies the south-west or left- 

 hand side of the river, and exhibits along the quay 

 a fine row of stuccoed or chunamed warehouses. 

 The lower story of the greater part of these is 

 an arcade supported by pillars at short distances. 

 They are only two stories high, devoid of archi- 

 tectural ornament, but are convenient buildings 

 for the trade. On the right are to be seen the 

 buildings appropriated to the government offices. 

 These are situated on an extensive parade-ground, 

 studded with a few fine trees. The houses having 

 extensive porticoes, and being adorned with flowers 

 in large vases, have lather an elegant appearance, 

 but this is in part dissipated on a nearer approach. 

 They are usually enclosed with low walls, sur- 

 mounted by iron railings, within which are small 

 flower-gardens, that do not, however, display 

 much taste. 



The bridge which connects the two towns is by 

 far the most attractive place in Singapore, for the 

 constant passing and repassing across this thorough- 

 fare makes it particularly amusing to a stranger. 

 The consul's rooms were so situated as to command 

 a free view of this moving panorama. The number 

 of Asiatic nations that frequent Singapore is said 

 to be twenty -four, consisting of Chinese, Hindoos, 

 Malays, Jews, Armenians, Pai-sees, Bugists, be- 

 sides Europeans. The variety of costume ex- 

 hibited may therefore be easily imagined, and 

 afforded opportunities for inquiry as well as amuse- 



ment. The bridge was particularly thronged 

 during the first day of our visit, for it was a holi- 

 day, both with the Chinese and Mahomedans of 

 Hindoostan. 



The trades, as is usual in the East, are carried 

 on in the streets, and carpenters, blacksmiths, tin- 

 ners, butchers, bakers, tailors, barbers, crockery 

 and opium sellers, and coffin-makers, are to be met 

 in succession. Money-changers are to be found 

 here and there, and large well- supplied shops are 

 not wanting, although their narrow and contracted 

 fronts give no reason to anticipate their existence. 

 That of Whampoa, our comprador, was one of the 

 largest, and it gave a better idea of Noah's ark 

 than of any thing else, presenting a mixture of 

 living animals, with every thing that is required for 

 the artificial wants of the shipping. In front were 

 all the varieties of ship stores that China and 

 Europe could furnish ; and in the rear were poul- 

 try, pigs, sheep, and pigeons, in pens and cages, 

 with various parrots, cockatoos, and monkeys, while 

 quantities of geese and ducks xvere accommodated 

 beneath with pools of water. Between the live-stock 

 and the groceries were large quantities of vege- 

 tables and fruit, besides lots of bread, flour, and 

 dough ready for the oven. The noise occasioned 

 by the cackling, bellowing, crowing, and bleating, 

 with the accumulation of filth, surprised as well as 

 disgusted ; for although it was reached at every 

 tide by the water, yet there was ample necessity 

 for the use of brooms and shovels. The Chinese, 

 though cleanly in their persons, are far from being 

 so in their general habits, if we may judge from 

 those that I have met in the places we have 

 visited. 



On landing, that which impresses a stranger most 

 strongly, is the great variety both of costume and 

 of race. Almost every person that is encountered 

 appears different from his predecessor, so that it is 

 some time before it can be decided which nation 

 predominates; but on reaching the old town, this is 

 no longer doubtful, for the Chinese are soon found 

 to be the most numerous. 



The variety of religious sects also soon become 

 evident. All have their places of worship, and 

 enjoy the free exercise of their religion, so that in 

 passing around, the mosque of the Mahomedan, the 

 temple of the Chinese, and the churches of various 

 Christian sects, are met with in their turn. 



The number of spoken languages is such as to 

 recall the idea of Babel, and to excite a desire to 

 learn the cause of such a collection of nations. 

 This is partly to be found in the favourable com- 

 mercial site of Singapore, on the great highway 

 between the eastern and western nations, and in 

 the protection afforded to all by its being under a 

 European power, but chiefly in the fact of its being 

 a free port, in every sense of the word. All are 

 allowed to visit it without any question being asked; 

 pirates of any nation may refit here, and no doubt 

 frequently do. without any molestation, so long as 

 they keep the peace. 



I was much struck with the apparent absence of 

 either police or military force; but after some in- 

 quiry, I was satisfied, by the order and general 

 quiet of the multitude, that there must be a control- 

 ling power within reach, and found the policemen 

 under the semblance of Persians, easily distinguish- 

 able by their neat and cleanly appearance. They 

 are generally better dressed than the body of the 

 z 2 



