342 



Theatricals. 



SINGAPORE. 



Convicts. Market. Bazaars. 

 Malays. 



cask. These were in fact lanterns, supported by 

 poles, and connected together by white cotton or 

 gauze, which was here and there coloured. The 

 head of the monster was of large dimensions, with a 

 wide-extended mouth, showing its fiery tongue and 

 rows of sharp teeth. The movements of the ser- 

 pent were well managed, and its gyrations, twist- 

 ings, and windings over the people's heads, gave it 

 a formidable look. It appeared as if in search of an 

 illuminated globe, representing the old year, as the 

 serpent is supposed to typify the new one. It was, 

 from time to time, permitted almost to seize the 

 globe, which was then hurried away, upon which 

 the ponderous jaws would come together with a 

 crash, and then the serpent would hurry onward 

 again in hot pursuit. I was told that it swallowed 

 the globe at the expiration of the year, but I did 

 not speak to any one who saw the finale. The 

 figure of this serpent was from eighty to one hun- 

 dred feet iu length, and two feet in diameter. 



During this closing scene of the festival, all the 

 Chinese houses were open, and the josh-houses and 

 idols illuminated with wax candles, and decked 

 with flowers and tinsel. 



Theatrical exhibitions were at the same time 

 going forward in many places ; open sheds are 

 erected for this purpose, where the exhibition was 

 entirely gratuitous. The actors, I was told, are 

 paid by a general subscription, which also provides 

 for the other expenses of the spectacle. These 

 sheds are closed on three sides, but open on that 

 which faces the street. The stage is raised about 

 six feet above the street ; the whole is richly deco- 

 rated with silk hangings, and banners with many 

 inscriptions, and illuminated with coloured lamps. 

 The stage, which was by no means of large size, 

 was occupied by a table and two chairs. The dia- 

 logue was in a kind of recitative, with an accom- 

 paniment performed by beating with two small 

 sticks on the bottom of a copper kettle of the 

 shape of a coffee-pot. The person who performed 

 this duty appeared to direct all the spectacle, as 

 prompter and leader of the orchestra. The other 

 musical instruments were the gong, cymbals, and a 

 kind of hautboy, the holes of which are not ar- 

 ranged with any view to produce harmonious 

 sounds. The dresses of the actors were very rich, 

 and the females were represented by young men 

 or boys. The male characters were for the most 

 part masked, but not the female; the former gene- 

 rally had long black and white beards. The prin- 

 cipal part of the performance seemed to consist in 

 attitudinizing, and appeared to interest the audi- 

 ence, as it did us, although according to our ideas 

 it was not suited to the words or sentiment ; for 

 instance, during a pathetic part, whilst the actor 

 was shedding tears, he would suddenly throw up 

 one leg, and almost kick himself on the nose ! The 

 acting, upon the whole, was, to our notions, in a 

 mock-heroic style ; but this might have arisen 

 from our not being able to comprehend the mean- 

 ing, for the other spectators seemed greatly in- 

 terested. There was something, however, which 

 there was no difficulty in our understanding, and 

 this was the fighting. The two combatants draw 

 their swords or handle their spears, and begin 

 turning round poking at each other without clo- 

 sing, when suddenly one runs off ; the other, 

 after having evidently informed the audience that 

 he is the victor, then makes his exit, accompanied 



with a most tremendous noise from both the music 

 and audience. After the performance had closed, 

 it was with difficulty that I could determine 

 whether it had been comedy or tragedy : which- 

 ever it was, it was mingled with still vaulting 

 somersets, cart-wheel motions, and casting them- 

 selves about, indifferent as to what part they fell 

 on, in modes which I may truly say, I had 

 never seen surpassed, either in muscular action 

 or agility. 



The convicts sent to Singapore are employed 

 upon the public works; and a large prison in the 

 suburbs of Singapore is provided for their safe- 

 keeping at night, or when not at work. I was not 

 able to ascertain their exact number, but I believe 

 it amounts to some fifteen hundred. 



The market was well filled with venders, so much 

 so, indeed, that the passages through it are ren- 

 dered narrow and tortuous; the principal article 

 for sale was fish, fresh and dried, and prawns. 

 This kind of fish is numerous and abundant. The 

 part of the market where they are sold is built 

 over the water, and being furnished with a loose 

 flooring, the filth is easily got rid of. The butcher- 

 meats consisted for the most part of pork, which is 

 raised in large quantities. Fowls and ducks were 

 also very numerous. A number of eggs were seen 

 with the shell broken, to exhibit the dead chicken, 

 and others that were rotten, in which state they 

 were favourite food of the Chinese. Vegetables 

 and dried fruits were also in great abundance; 

 these latter were imported from China. Of vege- 

 tables, there were lettuces, onions, garlic, sweet- 

 potatoes, and large quantities of germinating rice, 

 which is sold for planting. Of the quantities of 

 fresh fruit it is almost impossible to give an ade- 

 quate idea, and they are all of fine kinds, many of 

 which I had never before seen. 



The bazaars form the general resort of those 

 who frequent the market. Every avenue, arcade, 

 or veranda approaching it is filled with money- 

 changers, and small-ware dealers, eager for selling 

 European goods, Chinese toys, and many other 

 attractive curiosities. It is necessary to be careful 

 in making even the smallest offers, for although it 

 may be but half or a fourth of what is asked, it is 

 instantly accepted. The money-changers seem to 

 be a peculiar class; they are much darker in 

 colour than the rest of this singular throng, and 

 are seen sitting cross-legged on their tables, with 

 extensive rouleaux of copper coin, heaps of cowrie- 

 shells, and some silver. 



The Malay population dwell chiefly in the 

 suburbs, or what are termed the Malay villages. 

 The Malays seem to bear the palm for idleness 

 among the common people, and are rarely found 

 engaged in any steady employment, preferring 

 those that are either light or of a roving character. 

 They engross the occupation of the drivers of 

 palanquins, are strong and active, and will run a 

 great length of time and distance, in a hot and 

 oppressive day, seemingly without inconvenience. 

 Those of the latter sort who are more wealthy, 

 indulge in many luxuries, pj*ticularly in dress. 

 They usually wear mustaches, which are always 

 neatly kept, and occupy no small portion of their 

 attention and time; and, contrasted with the white 

 turban, with its band of scarlet and gold, has a 

 particularly pleasing effect, with their swarthy 

 skins. On holidays they are to be met with in 



