Departure from Table Bay. 



CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. 



The squadron sails for St. Helena. 

 Appearance of St. Helena. 



355 



Farms;" they contain about three square miles, 

 and there are many of this description still existing: 

 these are considered as desirable tenures, being 

 good as long as the rent is regularly paid, which is 

 generally at the low rate of ten dollars for the 

 tract. The lands, however, about the Cape, and in 

 the Cape district, were obtained by grants, and are 

 now known as " Gratuity Farms." 



There are likewise freehold estates, which con- 

 sist of a small farm, not much exceeding one hun- 

 dred acres. These, I was told, were in the imme- 

 diate vicinity of Cape Town. They were usually 

 obtained by purchase of the first settlers. 



The system of quit-rents is in perpetuity, and the 

 rent is made to depend upon the quality and cir- 

 cumstances of the crop. These are the largest 

 kind of estates, and seldom include less than five to 

 eight thousand acres. 



The sale or transfer of land was also novel to us. 

 No land can be sold, unless the persons make appli- 

 cation at the Cape, to officers appointed, called 

 commissioners, whose duty it is to see that all liens 

 on the land, such as bonds and mortgages, are all 

 paid up; and the liabilities are fully protected; and 

 the person wishing to sell must have permission of 

 the one who may hold any claim on the estate, be- 

 fore he can legally dispose of his property ; and the 

 consent of the mortgagee must be obtained in 

 writing before the debt can be transferred with the 

 property. 



Supplies of all kinds can be obtained at the 

 Cape, and usually at reasonable prices; the bread 

 we purchased, made from native flour, was of ex- 

 cellent quality; fruit also, though considered out 

 of season by the inhabitants, could be purchased in 

 any quantity, either in the markets or from the 

 bumboats alongside of the vessels. The usual faci- 

 lities for watering are rather deficient: there are no 

 floating tanks, and some inconvenience results from 

 the use of casks. 



On the 17'h, we got under way with a light and 

 baffling wind. The air was from the eastward aloft, 

 while a westerly breeze blowing below it, often took 

 our lower sails aback; still the upper ones were 

 full. By constant attention and frequent swinging 

 of the yards, we effected a passage through the 

 northern channel, passing at a short distance from 

 Robben's Island, on whose shore we saw, as usual, 

 the breaking surf curiously refracted. 



Robben's Island is now used as a place of con- 

 finement for criminals, who are employed in the 

 quarries to furnish stone for paving and building. 

 The stone is a schistus, and commonly known at 

 the Cape as blue flag. 



As we cleared the island, objects to seaward 

 were seen refracted in a manner that I had never 

 before observed so distinctly. As before stated, 

 there was an upper and an under current in the 

 atmosphere, and these strata were of different 

 temperature. The thermometer at the masthead 

 marking 73, while that on the deck stood at no 

 more than 59. A ship about three miles distant 

 in the offing, was seen vertically and horizontally 

 refracted at the same time. Her courses and top- 

 sails appeared ill-defined, shapeless, and quivering; 

 her bowsprit and head-spars formed curves, while 

 her jib and flying-jib were drawn out in nearly 

 horizontal lines. Above, her topgallant-sails and 

 royals were seen perfectly well defined; a distinct 

 line of bluish haze divided them from the lower 



sails, and could be traced to about sixty degrees 

 on each side, until it joined with the horizon. 



We now shaped our course for St. Helena, which 

 I was desirous of reaching at the earliest day, in 

 order to intercept the two brigs, and if a further 

 supply of bread could be obtained there, to proceed 

 with them directly for the United States. 



Our passage to St. Helena was of the ordinary 

 length, thirteen days; we had very light winds and 

 a smooth sea, indicating that a long calm had ex- 

 isted. Northerly currents generally prevailed, 

 though at times setting to the eastward and west- 

 ward of that point. On the 30th of April, in the 

 latitude of 23 S., and longitude 2 40' E., we en- 

 tered the trades, from which time until our arrival 

 at St. Helena on the 1st of May, we experienced no 

 currents. 



The appearance of the island disappointed us: 

 its height and size were much less than we anti- 

 cipated. It is but a bare and barren rock, rising 

 abruptly from the sea ; and the only thing re- 

 markable is the succession of batteries, which are 

 seen occupying every nook and corner where 

 cannon could be placed, from the water-line to the 

 highest peak. All now serve but to recall to mind 

 the extraordinary man for whose safe-keeping so 

 much cost and care had been bestowed. From 

 the outward view of St. Helena, it seems scarcely 

 necessary to have incurred so much expense and 

 provided such means for the safe-keeping of Napo- 

 leon ; for the island itself is almost inaccessible on 

 all sides ; .its bare rocks rising several hundred 

 feet perpendicularly from the water. To reach the 

 roadstead it is necessary to pass within a short 

 distance of the rocks, and close along them until 

 the valley of Jamestown is reached, which offers 

 the only anchorage. Here it is often difficult to 

 procure a good berth, as the roadstead is frequently 

 crowded with vessels. 



On our arrival we were informed that the Por- 

 poise and Oregon had sailed but a short time pre- 

 viously ; all were well, and their stay at the island 

 had been short. Six American ships were at 

 anchor in the roadstead when we arrived, and 

 three more came in the day after, making in all 

 ten ships and a schooner bearing the flag of our 

 own country. 



The interior of the island of St. Helena is unin- 

 teresting, and when compared with those we had 

 recently visited, may be said to be devoid of 

 beauty. It possesses nothing to recommend it to 

 the notice of a stranger, except its connexion with 

 Napoleon's exile. It is said this island was first 

 suggested as a place of confinement for the great 

 prisoner by the Duke of Wellington, who had him- 

 self been detained there for some months, while 

 on his way from India, and was forcibly impressed 

 with its natural strength and adaptation for his 

 confinement. 



To the circumstance of the residence of Napoleon 

 this island owes not only its chief celebrity; but as 

 a consequence, its temporary growth and prospe- 

 rity: and with the removal of his remains, St. 

 Helena will revert to what it was formerly. 



On his first landing, the ex-emperor occupied 

 the very apartments formerly used by the Duke of 

 Wellington; but was, the next day, at his own 

 request, removed to the " Briars," a retired country 

 cottage, situated in the small " bosom" at the head 

 of the gully of Jamestown. 



Aftl 



