746 



GLEANINGS IN BEE CULTURE. 



June 1 



plete the work that they have begun rather 

 than new work in new sections. It is wrong 

 in theory and practice to leave sections on 

 the hive for six months, as it is presumed 

 you would not have a honey- flow running 

 continuously for that length of time. When 

 the bees are not gathering honey beyond 

 their daily needs for direct consumption and 

 brood-rearing, they will not, of course, do 

 any work in the supers. 



You need have no fear that foul brood 

 will be transmitted through the queens sent 

 by mail. We have had no reports, so far as 

 I know, of the disease being carried in that 

 manner. When we had foul brood in our 

 yard many years ago, for the purpose of ex- 

 periment we purposely took queens direct 

 from hives that were badly diseased, and 

 placed them in healthy colonies; and in not 

 a single case was the disease transmitted 

 through the queen. 



Doubtless in your climate it would be ad- 

 visable for you to have a cover with venti- 

 lation between the two thicknesses, or, per- 

 haps, better still, a shade-board projecting 

 over the front and back of the hive, and 

 pretty well over the south side. It would 

 be better still to put the hives under a 

 bushy overhead trellis, on the Arizona plan. 

 For hot climates this is the best of any thing 

 I know of. 



In a locality as far south of the equator as 

 yours, the projecting shade-board sliould, of 

 course, be on the north side. 



The question of the control of ants depends 

 entirely on the species and the locality. In 

 the northern part of the United States very 

 little trouble is experienced; but in some of 

 our Southern States, notably Florida and 

 Texas, one or two species prove to be quite 

 destructive. In the West Indies, South 

 America, and the tropics, and very possibly 

 in your locality, it may be necessary to put 

 the hives up on trellises or posts smeared 

 with tar. 



Mr. W. K. Morrison, who visited us a few 

 days ago, said he had often been compelled 

 to close the entrances of his hives at night, 

 and then open them in the morning. In this 

 case a fine-mesh wire screen ventilator must 

 be provided somewhere in the hive. We 

 have asked Mr. Morrison to prepare an ar- 

 ticle or two on this subject, describing the 

 ants of warm countries, and the means of 

 holding them in check. This he will do 

 later.— Ed.] 



HORIZONTAL VS. VERTICAL WIRING; THE 

 VERTICAL PREFERRED. 



I have concluded that horizontal wiring 

 for jumbo deep frames is somewhat of a 

 failure. Another defect of wire is that it 

 rusts out. The Dr. Miller splints of wood 

 are rust-proof, but are too fussy to work 



with. ... , 



I think that your suggestion of winng the 

 foundation in manufacturing is the solution 

 of the difficulties; but instead of using wire 

 I would use light zinc splints, which could 

 be used the same as wire. After the foun- 

 dation is cut the zinc strips would be ppliots. 



The zinc ribbou could be stamped the same 

 as the foundation, and then imbedded in the 

 same manner. 



It may be possible to improve the manner 

 of fastening foundation to the top of the 

 frame. Instead of two saw- kerfs, make 

 one i or I in. wide; turn the edge of the 

 foundation \ inch to a right angle; drop it 

 into groove, and fill with strip or wedge. 

 The outer edge of the groove could be made 

 flaring, also one edge of the strip or wedge. 

 When it is to be pressed to the bottom of 

 the groove it should pinch the foundation, 

 and be nailed at every splint or rib. 



The wedges that you make for the double- 

 saw-kerf manner of fastening are made (or 

 were) too small. After seasoning they work 

 loose, no matter how tight they were driven 

 down. 



I think that, with a perpendicular rib of 

 fine flat zinc securely fastened at top, there 

 would be no buckling, sagging, nor rusting 

 out, caused by frost and dampness. 



Basco, 111., May 9, Wm. Find lay. 



[The zinc splints would be far too expen- 

 sive. Very fine iron wire or wooden splints 

 would be the only stay feasible. Our saw- 

 kerfs for holding the wedges are made wider 

 and deeper, and I do not think there will be 

 any trouble now.— Ed.] 



HOW TO divide and NOT LOSE BEES. 



In dividing a swarm, for introduction of 

 new queen into one part, how many frames 

 from the ten- frame hive do you advise car- 

 rying to the new stand? and is it best to 

 leave the old queen in the old home or take 

 her to the new one? 



Edward F. Bigelow. 



Stamford, Conn., May 11. 



[A great deal will depend on the quantity 

 and the stage of growth of brood in the 

 various frames. Very young or unsealed 

 brood should be left largely in the old colo- 

 ny, and most of the sealed brood with the 

 old queen should go to the new hive or new 

 location. Sometimes the division will be 

 about a half in each hive, and at other times 

 the division may give a couple more frames 

 to the one than the other. 



The object of using young or unsealed 

 brood in the old hive is to make sure that it 

 is not deserted by the flying bees, as it 

 might be if put in the new quarters. Then 

 putting the queen in the new location has a 

 tendency to hold the bees somewhat. She 

 will lay eggs no faster than the bees can 

 take care of them. 



In case the brood is largely young, very 

 little sealed, and there are a good many 

 young bees on the combs, pick out three or 

 four frames, giving each frame a slight 

 shake. This will dislodge the old bees in a 

 greater proportion than the young. These 

 latter will cling to the comb, and can be 

 taken to a new location where they vdll stay. 



When working on either plan put two- 

 thirds of the bees in the new location, and a 



