1905 



GLEANINGS IN BEE CULTURE. 



319 



I have handled almost all the different 

 styles of Langstroth frames, and I like the 

 loose or unspaced thick-top-bar frame best 

 of any. I also want them to be made of J- 

 inch lumber, using a much larger rail than 

 is commonly used. I like the Hoffman 

 frame when I go to move hives, frames, and 

 all, but not when I move the frames alone. 

 The old-style thin top-bar is not as good as 

 the Hoffman; but when one lives in a place 

 where propolis is plentiful, don't give him 

 the Hoffman. 



If you would like to experiment a little, 

 just try some harder wood than pine for a 

 top-bar, and you will be agreeably surprised 

 for many years, for these same frames will 

 hold nails better than pine, especially white 

 pine. I like a basswood frame better than 

 pine, and poplar is still better. Also try 

 nailing your bottom-bars to your end- bars 

 by nailing them through the edge of the 

 end bars, and crosswise of the frame, end- 

 bar, and bottom-bar. J. A. Beardem. 



Harms, Tenn., Feb. 13. 



A PRETTY APIARY IN YORK STATE. 



This is a part of my apiary. On the left 

 is an ash-house, while on the right, out of 

 sight, is my home. The apple- tree touching 

 the side in the background is in a young apple 



HOFFMAN frames; SHORT TOP-BARS AND V 

 EDGES PREFERRED. 



I consider the Hoffman the best for my 

 use. I have tried a number of different 

 makes but am discarding all but the Hoff- 

 man. I also think the V edge is all right, 

 because, first, it retains the spacing belter; 

 and, second, because they do not kill the 

 bees as do the square-edged ones. The dif- 

 ference in bees probably would not amount 

 to a great deal, but the extra stings are 

 quite an item. 



Again, I would not have a frame that 

 comes clear out to the end of the hive. In 

 cool weather they always come loose with a 

 snap, which, unless accompanied with a 

 cloud of smoke, means more stings. I might 

 state that I never use a veil, as it obstructs 

 my vision. I think if those parties who ad- 

 vocate long top-bars would properly staple 

 their frames they would get along all right 

 with them as they are. Another thing is, if 

 a hive warps to such an extent as to make a 

 long top-bar necessary it had better be fixed 

 or discarded, because in a short honey-flow 

 it is a nuisance on account of rubbing, and 

 in a good one it will be filled with burr- 

 comb wherever the space is wider than it 

 should be. John W. Schlenker. 



Ankeny, la., Feb. 14. 



A FOUL-BROOD BILL FOR CONNECTICUT; BEE- 

 KEEPERS OF THE STATE URGED TO 

 WRITE TO THEIR LEGISLATORS. 



I have introduced into the General Assem- 

 bly of this State a copy of the Wisconsin 

 foul-brood law, the disease having made its 

 appearance in this vicinity. 



I should appreciate it very much if you 

 would call the attention of the hee-keepers 

 of this State to the matter, and ask them 

 to write to their Senator and Representa- 

 tive, urging its passage. 



Stephen J. Griffen. 



Bridgeport, Conn., Feb. y. 



orchard. In the distance is second-growth 

 hemlock and basswood. You can see the 

 bees on part of the hives, and apples on the 

 trees. E. M. Lawrence. 



Mayfield, N. Y. 



TO PREVENT BEES FROM MIXING WHEN SET- 

 TING OUT. 



In the spring when setting my bees out of 

 the cellar, they mix so badly that some of 

 them are almost depopulated (the thermome- 

 ter registering 60 or 70 degrees in the bee- 

 yard). They are put out about the middle 

 of April. They come out with great fury, 

 and my loss is very heavy some springs be- 

 cause they mix with other colonies. 



Seth Doan. 



Molesworth, Ont., Jan. 25, 1905. 



[Set them out toward night— too late for 

 them to fly. In the morning they will have 

 quieted down. It may be advisable to set a 

 part of the bees out at one time and the 

 rest at another. By practicing both plans 

 you will probably have no trouble. — Ed.] 



PUTTING unfilled SUPERS BENEATH THE 

 BROOD-CHAMBER. 



Last fall, after extracting in the summer 

 from my four colonies of bees, there was 

 a lot of honey in the supers; but I did not 

 have an extractor, and there was not enough 

 honey to pay for the trouble of borrowing 

 one, so I put the supers under the brood- 

 chambers (my idea being to hold the heat to 

 better advantage). Now suppose I find that 

 honey candied in the combs in the spring, 

 what can I do to save the honey and combs, 

 or at least the combs? Was this a good 

 plan ? A. J. SULEM, 



Payette, Ida., Jan. 20. 



[Soak the combs in warm water over 

 night, and then give them a whirl in an ex- 

 tractor. But you have no extractor. Well, 

 set one down in the center of a brood-nest 

 when the queen is laying well. Better get 

 an extractor. —Ed.] 



