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THE GENESEE FAEMEE. 



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raiglit grow winter rye, buckwheat and oats. 

 I have also ?een a good growth of straw but no 

 oats ; wheat a total failure ; also difficult to seed 

 with grass, and, if obtained, only good for one 

 year. Plow and sow one season, and the next 

 burn over, is a part of my experience. S. Y. — 

 i:ssex Co., N. Y. 



MusTAED Seed. — I am anxious to know how I shall go to 

 work to raise Mustard Seed for table use — the common 

 brown — as I think it ii profitable crop to engage in, especi- 

 ally when it will command $4.00 per bushel. I know 

 nothing about raising it, whether to sow in the spring or 

 fall, to scatter broadcast or plant in rows. I wish to know 

 how mucli seed I want per acre, and what kind of soil is 

 best adapted for its cultivation? I have plenty of clay and 

 muck land. David Leck. — Plattsburgli, Clin. Co., 'H. Y. 



HORTICULTURAL. 



(R. T., Taylor, 111.) Osage Okange Hedges.— 

 Soak the seed twenty-four hours in warm water. 

 Sow like peas, but thicker, in light, loamy soil. 

 At the end of the first year the plants will be 

 eight to twelve inches high, and may be planted 

 in hedge row.s. Have the soil well prepared and 

 plant a double row, or two rows a foot apart, and 

 the plants six inches apart in the rows, the plants 

 in one row being opposite the spaces in the other. 

 Keep the ground clean and mellow for the first 

 two or three years, and shear the hedge twice a 

 year to make it thick at the bottom. 



(D. A., Oneco, 111.) Quince Stocks. — You can 

 procure them at any of the nurseries here. A 

 small parcel can best be sent by express. 



(P. B., Sennett.) Osage Orange and Buckthorn 

 seeds should be sowed immediately ; any time in 

 the month of May will do. Soak a day in warm 

 water before planting. The Osage Orange in 

 particidar needs this. 



(Mrs. F. B., Canandaigua.) You can get the 

 Rose-colored Wcigclia at the nurseries hei-e. Price 

 three or four shillings each. 



The Mallow can soon be eradicated. Hoe and 

 destroy as fast as they appear, and if in a place 

 where no crop is growing, sprinkle freely with 

 salt or brine. 



(C. B., Rochester, la.) "VVe are much obliged 

 for the information respecting the Bcnoni Hose 

 pear. Will be glad to see the fruit, if to be liad 

 this coming season. 



(J. II. A.) The Northern Spy will no doubt 

 succeed well grafted on seedlings si.x or eight 

 feet higli, if this mode be necessary. Here we 

 prefer low working. 



C. J. M., Frankfort, la., wishes to know the 

 most effectual mode of guarding against rabbits 

 in orchards. "We have heard of a wash made of 

 milk and soot, put on the tree two feet or so from 

 the ground, being effectual ; but a little thorny 



We 



brush tied on answers, a good purpose, 

 should prefer it to " straw bandages." 



(A Subscriber.) We would not advise the use 

 of plum suckers for stocks, and especially if in 

 any degree affected with the black knot. This 

 disease seems to pervade the whole system. 



Bending Branches to produce Fruitfulness. — 

 Do it at any time. A branch must be bent du- 

 ring all of one growing season to make it become 

 fruitful. It is not safe .to bend lower branches 

 much to form pyramids, as it weakens them. 



Fire Blight. — We can not say that pears on 

 quince are less liable to it than standards. Wo 

 kmjw of no reason why it should be so. 



"Where I cut grafts from my young trees in the orchard, 

 in March last, and then trimmed them smooth to the body, 

 the sap oozed out all summer causing the bark of the trees 

 to all turn black. Can you tell me the cause of it ? I had 

 laid it to trimming too smooth at the wrong season; but I 

 noticed in the last number of the Farmer^s Companion, 

 that tliey recommended pruning this month and paring 

 smooth. My short experience proves that smooth pruning 

 in this month, is injurious. Please give your views in the 

 next number of the Genesee Farmer. Wm. J. B. — Grand 

 Ilupids, Mich. 



We have never observed anything of the kind. 



It might occur from pruning, in the case of stone 



fruits. These should not be pi'uned at the moment 



when the buds are swelling, but rather earlier, 



or later, when the leaves have expanded. 



Apple Trees injured in Winter. — I will reply 

 in a word to J. A. N., Mercer Co., Pa., page 37. 

 My young trees last winter, and especially in the 

 nursery rows, where I did not take the precati- 

 tion to remove the cause, suffered much in the 

 same way. I think it is caused by snow falling, 

 then rain, and then a severe freeze, which neces- 

 sarily contracts the bark of the young trees ; then 

 there being so much weight accumulated on the 

 surface that the snow below settles, and as it set- 

 tles the ice around the tree sometimes produces 

 a rupture upon the surface of the bark. I took 

 the trouble last winter to break the crust in some 

 I)arts of my nursery with good effect. A light 

 coat of grafting wax applied in season to the 

 wound is of great service to keep the tree from 

 drying up till the sap begins to circulate; but if 

 you had no crust, or if your trees are large and 

 old, it is probably tho result of some other cause. 

 J. D. C— Locke, N. Y. 



Osage Orange. — I have of late seen some in- 

 quires made about Osage Orange, as to its liardi- 

 ness and growth in our climate, in reference to 

 its being used for hedges. L will give you my 

 experience in as few words ns may be. 



In the spring of 1819 I planted a small lot of 

 tlie seed, and being rather "green" in the matter, 

 but very few of them come up; those tliat did, 

 grew aliout twelve inches; and in the fall, lest 

 tlu'y should be injured by the frost, I covered 

 the roots with dry leaves, covering them slightly 



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