292 



DISCOVERY 



is not the place to dwell on the scientific results, but 

 they were important both in geology and biology, 

 while a very considerable extent of new ground was 

 surveyed. 1 



This year the Mount Everest expedition took the 

 field with high hopes of success. Gen. the Hon. 

 G. C. Bruce, who was in command, left Darjeeling 

 with the main body at the end of March, some eight 

 weeks earlier than the start of last year's expedition. 

 Experience had proved that the end of May or the 

 first half of June was the best period for the great 

 climb. The expedition was on an elaborate scale. 

 It consisted of twelve members, and required a great 

 deal of transport, largely because of the oxygen 

 apparatus and elaborate photographic equipment. 

 Tibetan yaks, bullocks, mules, and donkeys, beside 

 numerous hUlmen, were employed. The early start 

 entailed many difficulties ; some of the animals were 

 in poor condition, and the weather conditions as higher 

 elevations were reached were anything but propitious. 

 The expedition followed practically the same route 

 through Tibet as the previous year, and eventually, 

 at the end of April, all the party and its equipment 

 were assembled at the base camp on the Rongbuk 

 glacier at an elevation of 16,600 ft. The next step 

 was to establish an advanced base on the north col 

 at some 23,400 ft., provisioning it with stores and 

 equipment, including a supply of oxygen, for work at 

 high altitudes. Low temperatures and some trouble 

 with Tibetan coolies caused unlooked-for delays, but 

 a reconnaissance up the East Rongbuk glacier was 

 successful in revealing a practicable route to the 

 north col. 



Camp I was established three miles south of the 

 base camp at the mouth of the East Rongbuk glacier. 

 It was provided with stone huts. From here a 

 reconnoitring party set out on May 5 up the glacier, 

 establishing Camp II at 19,360 ft. and Camp III on 

 May 8 at 21,000 ft., under the towering cliffs of 

 Changtse, the peak of 24.730 ft. which rises to the 

 north of Mount Everest. This camp served as an 

 advanced base to which the outfit was transferred as 

 speedily as possible from the main base ten miles 

 distant. No time was lost in looking for the route 

 to the north col (Chang La). A reconnaissance party 

 of Messrs. MaUory and Somervell established a camp 

 (IV) just below the col on a convenient shelf. Several 

 days later on, namely May 19, Messrs. Mallory, 

 Morshead, Norton, and Somervell, with several 

 porters, starting from Camp III, reached Camp IV 

 and established Camp V at 25,000 ft. Two days 

 later Messrs. Mallory, Norton, and Somervell climbed 

 from Camp V to 26,800 ft. They found no con- 



'■ Mount Everest : the Reconnaissance. 1921. Lieut, -Col. 

 Howard-Bury, D.S.O., and others. London, 1922. 



siderable difficulties on the route, although the surface 

 conditions were not good. No oxygen was used on 

 this climb. Already the record in climbing altitude 

 had been broken. The highest point previously 

 reached by man was 24,583 ft., which was gained by 

 the Duke of the Abruzzi on the Himalayan peak 

 known as K, in July IQ09. Mr. Mallory 's party was 

 only 2,200 ft. below the summit of Mount Everest, 

 but at those altitudes even a short distance is a for- 

 midable task. They felt able to go higher when they 

 decided to turn, but doubted their ability to get back 

 if they continued. As it was, the descent to Camp III 

 was painful and arduous : several of the party were 

 frostbitten, and all suffered from the cold. 



At the end of May another party, consisting of 

 Messrs. Finch. G. Bruce, and a Gurkha, made a second 

 attempt, and with the use of oxygen succeeded in 

 reaching 27,300 ft. This climb was most arduous. 

 At 25,500 ft. the party was stormbound for a night 

 and a day. On the second night the climbers had 

 a poor sleep, inhaling a quarter-ration of oxygen. 

 At 26,000 ft. the Gurkha became exhausted and had 

 to return. This allowed more oxygen for Messrs. 

 Finch and G. Bruce, who continued alone, but it 

 increased each load from 36 lb. to 48 lb. Within 

 a few feet of the stmimit ridge which represents the 

 last lap they were forced to turn back. A long detour 

 entailing slow progress was necessary in order to 

 reach the ridge, and for this they had no food supplies. 

 An unforeseen disadvantage of the use of oxygen was 

 found to be the hunger it induced, and in consequence 

 the difficulty in carrying sufficient food. When the 

 climbers returned the same day to Camp III, after a 

 meal on the way at Camp IV, " we were finished : I 

 doubt " (writes Mr. Finch) " if either of us could have 

 taken another step." This climb fell short of the sum- 

 mit by 1,700 ft., but it was a magnificent achievement, 

 and was to prove the culmination of the season's work. 



By the beginning of June the prospects of success 

 were still bright, for the monsoon was not expected 

 to break for a week or two. Three of the climbers 

 were out of action owing to severe frostbite or fatigue, 

 but five were ready and apparently fit for another 

 attempt. On June 3 a start was made from the 

 base up the East Rongbuk glacier along the line of 

 camps. Ill-luck dogged the party from the beginning. 

 On the day of their departure the monsoon broke with 

 a thirty-six hours' snowstorm. At Camp I Mr. Finch 

 was forced to admit that he had not recovered from 

 his last great effort, and fell out. Messrs. Mallory, 

 Somervell, Wakefield, and Crawford continued, reach- 

 ing Camp III on June 5. They rested for a day, 

 enjoying superb weather, and set out for Chang La 

 on June 6. The lower slopes of the col were in good 

 condition with a firm snow surface, and the out- 



