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stanchions with holes mortised in them to hold rests for 

 your poles about 4| feet apart. Set such ones on either 

 side with a very stout rail, one end in either post. Set 

 these as often as you may need them, depending on the 

 length of your poles. No poles should be so long as to 

 sag very much when filled with plants. But for another 

 reason I would build a house expressly for hanging and 

 storing tobacco. Make it of good, liberal dimensions, 

 30 feet wide, by 40 or more in length; posts, 14 feet, 

 with two tiers of girths for poles to rest on ; one tier can 

 hang on the beams, and another above on the purlin 

 plates, thus hanging 4 tiers under the same roof. Venti- 

 late by a ventilator in the roof, also by hanging every 

 other board of the siding on hinges. For such a build- 

 ing, I would have a tight floor to the whole, and under- 

 neatha good walled cellar lighted with suitable windows, 

 and chimney in one corner, with a stove, to keep fire in 

 in very cold weather, to work by when stripping the 

 tobacco. For poles to hang on, I would get, if possible, 

 straight, slim, white pine staddles about 4-5 inches in 

 diameter ; shave the bark off" smooth, and we have poles 

 that will last and remain straight a lifetime, if kept housed. 

 "Having provided all required, even to the strong 

 cotton or hemp twine for tying up the tobacco, have a 

 good man to hand it to you. Commence by tying the 

 end of your twine around the butt of a plant, about 

 2 inches from the end, in a slip or loose knot ; place this 

 plant at one side of the pole near the end, your hand 

 carrying the twine over the pole ; on the opposite side of 

 the pole, about 6 inches along, place another plant, and 

 with a single turn of the twine around it from before. 



