Use of a Brake. 547 



Persons who have not paid any attention to the subject may object to the extra expense 

 of a lever-brake. What is the result? In descending a hill all the pressure is thrown on 

 the horses' necks and fore-legs. If the horses trot steadily, and the pole bears the extra 

 pressure without breaking, all goes well. But the safest, steadiest horse sometimes trips, or 

 shies, or bolts, startled by some unaccustomed sight or sound, or stung by an insect — 

 he gives a sudden snatch at the pole, and at the critical moment the timber snaps. With 

 a lever-brake the pressure on the neck, when a good coachman is driving, is entirely re- 

 moved, the horses run loose beside the pole, with pole-chains nearly loose, and, in case 

 of an accident, the carriage can be stopped with exceeding ease. But a stupid driver 

 will wear out a lever-brake by using it on the slightest declivity. 



HINTS FOR THE PRESERVATION OF A CARRIAGE. 



A carriage should be kept in an airy, dry coach-house, with a moderate amount of light, 

 otherwise the colours will be destroyed. There should be no communication between the 

 stables and the coach-house. The manure-heap or pit should also be kept as far away as 

 possible, as the ammonia exhaled from it cracks varnish, and makes the colours both of painting 

 and lining fade. 



Whenever it has to stand for days together, a carriage should always have on it a large 

 linen cover, sufficiently strong to keep off the dust without excluding the light. Dust, 

 when allowed to settle on a carriage, eats into the varnish. (N.B. Care should be taken to 

 keep the cover aired?) 



When a carriage is new or newly painted, it is better for it to stand a few weeks before 

 being used. It will, however, even then be liable to stain or spot, unless care be taken to 

 remove the mud before it dries on, or as soon afterwards as possible. 



A carriage should never under any circumstances be put away dirty. 



In washing a carriage keep out of the sun, and have the lever end of the setts covered 

 with leather. Use plenty of zvater, which apply (where practicable) with a hose or syringe, 

 taking great care that the water is not driven into the body, to the injury of the lining. When 

 forced water is not obtainable, use for the body a large soft sponge. This, when saturated, 

 squeeze over the panels, and by the flow down of the water the dirt will soften and harmlessly 

 run off, then finish with a soft chamois leather and an old silk handkerchief 



The same remarks apply to the under work and wheels, except that when the mud is 

 well soaked, a soft mop, free from any hard substance in the head, may be used. Never 

 use a spoke-brush, which, in conjunction with the grit from the road, acts like sand-paper 

 on the varnish, scratching it, and of course effectually removing all gloss. If persisted in it 

 will rub off the varnish and paint, down to the wood. Never allow water to dry itself on a 

 carriage, as it invariably leaves stains. 



To remove spots or stains, a few drops of furniture polish, reviver, or even linseed oil, on 

 a dab made of woollen rags (using as little of the fluid as possible), will generally suffice. Il 

 the panels are very bad, nothing but a regular flatting down and hand polishing, or even re- 

 varnishing, will be effectual. 



Patent leather may be easily revived in the same way. 



Enamelled leather heads and aprons should be washed with soap and water, and then very 

 lightly rubbed with linseed oil. The enamelled heads of landaus, barouches, and phaetons 



