l62 OVALLE*S HiStOlllCAL RELATION OF CHILE. 



be denied, that fome cities I have feen in Europe do out-do it in fome things, yet few 

 come near it, take it altogether : and, firft, for riches, it is the fountain from whence 

 all the reft of the world drinks ; its bravery in cloaths, and magnificency of the 

 court, out-does all others : it is extraordinarily populous ; for a father of our com- 

 pany, who had the care of catechifmg the Negroes, tOld me, they were at leaft fixty 

 thoufand, and more, that came to confeflion. They have fumptuous buildings, though 

 outwardly they make no fliew, having no tiles ; for it never rains all the year round : 

 all the furniture, as pidures, beds, &c. are mighty rich. There are great numbers of 

 coaches, and abundance of gentry ; all the inhabitants very rich, merchants of great 

 ftocks, tradesmen and handicraftfmen of all profeffions. But that which is to me mofl 

 confiderable, is, what belongs to the worfhip of God, and cult of religion ; for the 

 cathedral church, and all the parifh churches are very fumptuous, and provided of 

 admirable learned men, which come out of that univerfity ; of which thofe of the 

 country are not the leaft to be valued, having furnilhed fo many preachers and other 

 fubjefts for all other dignities, even to the higheft government. What fhall I fay of 

 the orders of friars and nuns ? I fcarce know one order that has not two or three con- 

 vents in the city, beautiful cloifters, great buildings, and yet greater churches ; fome 

 after the old fafhion ; all with burnilhed gold from top to bottom, as are thofe of 

 St.Auguftin, and St.Dominick : others after the modern way, with curious well- 

 wrought ceilings; as is that of the Jefuits, and of our lady of Mercedes, which 

 are of a very fine architedture. There are eight nunneries, fome of which have above 

 two hundred nuns in them. There are befides many oratories, confraternities, 

 hofpitals, and congregations. In our convent alone of the Jefuits, I remember there 

 were eight foundations of feveral kinds, and for people of as many different ranks 

 and eftates in the world. The great congregation has few in the world equal to 

 it : the chapel of it is very large, and of a very rich material, covered with filk 

 and gold, and rare pidures, with other rich ornaments belonging to it. There is 

 here great frequentatiion of the facraments by monthly communions : the body of 

 Chrift is expofed, and the church fo adorned with mufick and fweet fmells, that it is 

 a paradife upon earth. And amongft other pieces of devotion performed by this con- 

 gregation, there is a great entertainment or treat given once a year at an hofpital, 

 which is fo magnificent, that it is worth feeing : the fame is done in proportion by 

 the other congregations. 



This city is the feat of a viceroy, who indeed is a king in greatnefs and authority, 

 difpofing of a vaft number of places, commands, and pofts of honour and profit. There 

 is likewife a rich archbifhoprick of great authority; three courts, or royal audiencias; 

 a merchant court, which decides all matters of trade ; a famous univerfity, in which 

 are profeflbrs very learned in their profeffions ; three colleges or fchools for youth, 

 under the care of the fathers of our company of Jefus, in which are about one 

 hundred and thirty profeflbrs or mafters: there are every day new foundations for 

 orphans, widows, and to retire women from lewdnefs : there is the famous hofpital of 

 St. Andrew for the Spaniards ; and St. Anne for the Indians; all which would require 

 a relation by themfelves. 



This is what I could not avoid faying about this great capital of Peru ; and if it 

 continues increafing as it has done for this firft age, it will not have its fellow in the 

 world. The fame may be faid of Cufco, Arequipa, Chuquizaga, and the great town of 

 Potofi, which increafe fo, that he who is abfent a few years, does not know them when 

 he fees them again ; and the reafon is, that the veins and mines of gold and filver, 

 which, like a loadftone, have drawn fo many people thither, are fo far from leffen- 



1 1 ing. 



