41 6 ULLOA's voyage to SOUTit AMERICA. 



cafe very different even in the fame perfon, who, after a journey to the mountains, is 

 returning to Guayaquil, or vice verfa, provided the journey and return be made at the 

 fame feafon of the year. This fenfible difference proceeds only from the change natu- 

 rally felt at leaving a climate to which one has been accuflomed, and coming into 

 another of an oppofite temperature ; and thus two perfons, one ufed to a cold climate, 

 like that of the mountains, the other to a hot, like that of Guayaquil, mufl, at coming 

 into an intermediate temperature, as at Tarigagua, feel an equal difference ; one with 

 regard to heat, and the other with regard to cold ; which demonflrates that famous 

 opinion— that the fenfes are fubject to as many apparent alterations, as the fenfations are 

 various in thofe who feel them. For the impreflions of objeds are different, according 

 to the different difpofition of the fenfes j and the organs of two perfons differently dif- 

 pofed are differently affected. At a quarter pafl nine in the morning we began to 

 afcend the mountain of San Antonio, the foot of which is at Tarigagua j and, at one, 

 came to a place called by the Indians Guamac, or Crofs of Canes. Here is a fmall but 

 inclining plain ; and being told that it was half way up the acclivity, and our beafts 

 requiring reft, we halted here. 



The ruggednefs of the road from Tarigagua leading up this mountain is not eafily 

 defcribed. It gave us more trouble and fatigue, befides the dangers we were every 

 moment expofed to, than all we had experienced in our former journeys. In fome 

 parts the declivity is fo great that the mules can fcarce keep their footing, and in others 

 the acclivity is equally difficult. In many places the road is fo narrow that the mules 

 have fcarce room to let their feet ; and in others a continued feries of precipices. Be- 

 fides, thefe roads, or rather paths, are full of holes, or camelones, near three quarters of 

 a yard deep, in which the mules put their fore and hind feet ; fo that fometimes they 

 draw their bellies and riders* legs along the ground. Indeed thefe holes ferve as 

 fteps, without which the precipices would be in a great meafure impradicable. But 

 fhould the creat^jjre happen to put his foot between two of thefe holes, or not place it 

 right, the rider falls, and, if on the fide of the precipice, inevitably perilhes. It may 

 perhaps be faid, that it would be much fafer to perform this part of the journey on foot : 

 but how can any perfon be fure always of placing his feet diredly on the eminences 

 between the holes ; and the leaft falfe flep throws him up to the waift in a flimy mud, 

 with which all the holes are full ; and then he will find it very difficult either to proceed 

 or return back. 



Thefe holes, or camelones, as they are called, render all this road very toilfome and 

 dangerous, being as it were fo many obflacles to the poor mules ; though the danger is 

 even greater in thofe parts where they are wanting. For as the tracks are extremely 

 fteep and flippery, from the foil, which is chalky and continually wet j fo they would 

 be quite impradticable, did not the Indians go before, and dig little trenches acrofs the 

 road, with fmall fpades which they carry with them for this purpofe ; and thus both the 

 difficulty and danger of thefe craggy paths are greatly leffened. This work is continual, 

 every drove requiring a repetition of it ; for in lefs than a night the rain utterly deftroys 

 all the trenches cut by feveral hands the preceding day. The trouble of having people 

 going before to mend the road ; the pains arifing from the many falls and bruifes ; and 

 the difagreeablenefs of feeing one's felf entirely covered with dirt, and wet to the fkin, 

 might be the more cheerfully fupported, were they not augmented by the fight of fuch 

 frightful precipices, and deep abyffes, as mufl fill the traveller's mind with terror. For, 

 without the leafl exaggeration, it may be faid, that in travelling this road, the moft refo- 

 Jute tremble. 



Th$ 



