580 ULLOa's voyage to south AMERICA. 



this, fome add a mantelette, that the former may hang loofe. The difference between 

 this drefs and that worn at Quito, though confiding of the fame pieces, is, that at Lima 

 it is much fhorter, the petticoat, which is ufually tied below the waift, not reaching 

 lower than the calf of the leg, from whence, nearly to the ancle, hangs a border of very 

 fine lace, fewed to the bottom of the under petticoat ; through which the ends of their 

 ft. garters are difcovered, embroidered with gold or filver, and fometimes fet with pearls ; 



but the latter is not common. The upper petticoat, which is of velvet, or fome rich 

 ftufF, is fringed all round, and not lefs crowded with ornaments than thofe defcribed in. 

 the firll volume of this work. But be the ornaments what they will, whether of fringe, 

 lace, or ribands, they are always exquifitely fine. The fliift fleeves, which are a yard 

 and a half in length, and two yards in width, when worn for ornament, are covered 

 with rolls of lace, variegated in fuch a manner as to render the whole truly elegant. 

 Over the fhift is worn the jacket, the fleeves of which are exceffively large, of a circular 

 figure, and confill of rows of lace, or flips of cambric or lawn, with lace difpofed betwixt 

 each, as are alfo the fliift fleeves, even of thofe who do not aft'eft extraordinary orna- 

 ment. The body of the jacket is tied on the flioulders with ribands faftened to the 

 back of their fliays ; and the round fleeves of it being tucked up to the flioulders, are 

 fo difpofed together with thofe of the fliift, as to form what may be termed four 

 • wings. If the jacket be not buttoned or clafped before, it is agreeably fafl:ened on 

 the flioulders ; and indeed the whole drefs makes a mofl: elegant figure. They who 

 ufe a clofevefl:, faflien it with clafps,'but wear over it the loofe jacket already defcribed. 

 In the fummer they have a kind of veil, the ftuff' and fafliion of which is like that of 

 the fliift and body of the vefl:, of the finefl; cambric or lawn, richly laced ; but in 

 winter the veil worn in their houfes is of bays ; when they go abroad full drefled, it 

 is adorned like the fleeves. They alfo ufe brown bays, finely laced and fringed, and 

 bordered with flips of black velvet. Over the petticoat is an apron of the fame fliufF 

 as the fleeves of the jacket, hanging down to the bottom of it. From hence fome idea 

 may be formed of the expence of a drefs, where the much greater part of the fliuflT 

 is merely for ornament ; nor will it appear fl:range, that the marriage fliift fliould coft 

 a thoufand crowns, and fometimes more. 



One particular on which the women here extremely value themfelves, is the fize of 

 their feet, a fmall foot being eftieemed one of the chief beauties ; and this is the prin- 

 cipal fault they find with the Spanifli ladies, who have much larger feet than thofe of 

 Lima. From their infancy they are accufliomed to wear ftrait flioes, that their feet may 

 f' not grow beyond the fize which they efl:eem beautiful ; fome of them do not exceed 



five inches and ^ half, or fix inches in length, and in women of a fmall fl:ature they 

 are fl:ill lefs. Their flioes have little or no fole, one piece of cordovan ferving both for 

 that and the upper leather, and of an equal breadth and roundnefs at the toe and heel, 

 fo as to form a fort of long figure of 8 : but the foot not complying with the figure, 

 brings it to a greater regularity. Thefe flioes are always fafliened with diamond buckles, 

 or fomething very brilliant in proportion to the ability of the wearer, being worn lefs for 

 ufe than ornament ; for the flioes are made in fuch a manner, that they never loofen 

 of themfelves, nor do the buckles hinder their being taken ofl:'. It is unufual to fet 

 thefe buckles with pearls, a particular to be accounted for only from their being fo 

 lavifli of them in the other ornaments of drefs, as to confider them of too little value. The 

 flioemakers, who are no fl:rangers to the foible of the fex, take great care to make 

 them in a manner very little calculated for fervice. The ufual price is three half-crowns 

 4i pair J thofe embroidered with gold or filver cofl: from eight to ten crowns. The 



latter 



