6o2 ULLOA's voyage to south AMERICA. 



already mentioned ; it remains that we confider the meat and fifh with which it is alfo 

 equally provided. 



The bread at Lima is inconteftably the befl; in all this part of America, both with 

 regard to its colour and tafte, the goodnefs of the corn being improved by the manner 

 of working it ; and at the fame time fo reafonable, that the inhabitants ufe no other. 

 It is of three kinds : one called CriollQ, the crumb of which is very light and fpongy 5 

 the fecond, French bread ; and the lafl, foft bread. It is kneaded by negroes em- 

 ployed by the bakers, many of whom are very rich, and their fhops always well pro- 

 vided. Befides their own flaves, the bakers are alfo obliged to receive any delivered 

 up to them by their mafters to work as a punifhment ; and for thefe, befides finding 

 the flaves in provifions, they pay tl:e mafter the ufual wages in money or in bread. 

 This punifhment is the fevered that can be inflided on them, and, indeed, all the 

 hardfhips and cruelties of the galleys are lefs than what thefe wretches are obliged to 

 undergo. They are forced to work the whole day, and part of the night, with 

 little food and lefs fleep; fo that in a few days the mod vigorous and ftubborn flave 

 becomes weak and fubmiffive, and proftrates himfelf before his mafter, with tears, 

 intreaties, and promifes of amendment on being removed from that place, the dread 

 of which is doubtlefs of the greateft ufe in awing the vaft number of flaves, both 

 within and without the city. 



Their mutton is the moft common food, and is very palatable from the nitrous 

 paftures where the flieep are fattened. The beef alfo is good, but little eaten except 

 by the Europeans, fo that two or three beafts fupply the city for a week. Here is alfo 

 plenty of poultry, partridges, turtle-doves, &c. Pork is alfo in great abundance, 

 though not equally delicate with that of Carthagena. The lard is ufed in drefllng all 

 kinds of diflies whether of flefli or fifli, oil being only ufed in falads and the like. 

 This method of cookery is faid to have had its rife when the country aflforded no oil, 

 and has been continued to the prefent time, notwithftanding it is now produced in great 

 quantities. Antonia de Rivero, an inhabitant of Lima, in the year 1 660, planted the 

 firft olive-tree ever feen in Peru. 



From the mountains are often fent, by way of prefent, frozen calves j being 

 killed there, and left two or three days on the heaths to freeze ; after which they are 

 carried to Lima, where they may be kept any time required, without the leaft tendency 

 to putrefadion. 



Of fifli there is ftill a greater variety daily brought from the neighbouring parts of 

 Chorillos, Callao, and Ancon, the Indian inhabitants of which make fifliing their 

 whole bufinefs. The moft palatable are the corbinas, and the pege reyes, or king*s 

 fifli ; but thofe in the greateft plenty, and at the fame time very palatable, are the 

 anchovies. The corbinas, and the king's fifli, infinitely excel thofe of Spain ; the 

 latter is alfo remarkable for its fize, being generally fix or feven Paris inches in length ; 

 yet even thefe are thought to be furpafled by thofe caught in Buenos Ayres river. It is 

 a falt-water fifli, but very little different from that caught in the rivers of Spain. The 

 river of Lima affords a fort of prawns, two or three inches in length, but thofe fliould 

 rather be called cray-fifli. 



The whole coafts abound with fuch fljoals of anchovies, as exceed all comparifon;' 

 and befides the vaft quantities caught by fifliermen, they are the chief food of innumer- 

 able flights of birds, with which all thofe iflands abound, and commonly called guanoes, 

 poflibly from the guano or dung mentioned in the preceding chapter j many of them 

 are indeed alcatraces, a kind of gull, though all comprehended under the generical 

 name of guanoes. A little after the appearance of the fun, they rife from thofe 



iflands 



