ANCIENT MODE OF MANIPULATION. / 



came abundant in the seventh and eighth, and 

 general over the empire in the ninth century. 



If the origin of the use of tea is involved in 

 much obscurity, it may readily be imagined that 

 the early mode of manipulation is not less so. The 

 subject, however, being one of little interest, we 

 shall here adopt the opinion of the author of the 

 allegory before alluded to, — that tea was originally 

 made into the form of cakes. Both prior and 

 subsequent to the time of Lo-yu, allusion is made 

 to this form among the early notices of tea ; and 

 also of these cakes being ground to powder, and 

 used as an infusion, sometimes as a medicine, and 

 sometimes at feasts and banquets ; though when 

 employed in early times at these entertainments, 

 it always, perhaps, had some reference to its 

 medicinal properties, as promoting digestion, or as 

 stimulating the appetite. In the like manner 

 camomile tea, and the Po-ul tea, are served in the 

 present day at those tables, where a style refined 

 and recherche is much studied. The writer has 

 been present at an entertainment of this nature, 

 where a strong infusion of camomile tea was served 

 round after a numerous succession of dishes, con- 

 stituting what may be called the first course, 

 which had lasted more than an hour ; and where, 

 among other luxuries, the opium pipe was offered 

 to such guests as were willing to enjoy it ; but this 

 was at a time when that fascinatino; but noxious 



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