THE GATHERINGS. 95 



of the manipulated leaves does not arise from their 

 being so in the fresh or natural state, but is oc- 

 casioned by a particular mode of manipulation 

 previously to roasting. 



Now it is obvious, that one great cause of dif- 

 ference in the quality of tea depends upon the time 

 of the year in which the leaves are gathered. 

 Thus the Chinese universally agree that the young 

 luxuriant leaves put forth and gathered in early 

 spring are the best, while the other gatherings 

 deteriorate in quality as they approach the autumn, 

 which are the worst. 



In fact, on the return of spring, after a long dry 

 and cold winter, all vegetation acquires a high de- 

 gree of energy and excitability, which is exhibited 

 in the power of producing a more vigorous foliage 

 than at any subsequent period of the year. The 

 sap is also in a more concentrated or inspissated 

 state from its accumulation during winter, than 

 subsequently, after its first and most vigorous 

 flow in early spring. 



Thus it is not surprising that the Chinese should 

 find that the young succulent leaves of spring, 

 which, at this season in particular, have all the 

 important functions to perform which are neces- 

 sary to the elaboration of flowers fruits and wood, 

 as well as foliage, should furnish the heaviest and 

 the highest-flavoured tea, besides possessing all 

 those qualities on which excellence depends ; or 

 that, in subsequent periods, when the sap is in 



