114 FRAGRANCE, NONE IN FRESH LEAVES. 



night, the workmen are described as constantly 

 proceeding round to the different sieves, with a 

 lamp in the hand, gently and carefully lifting up 

 so much of the cloth of each sieve as will permit 

 them to discern whether the leaves have become 

 spotted and tinged with red. So soon as they 

 begin to assume this appearance they also increase 

 in fragrance, and must be instantly roasted or the 

 tea would be injured.* 



It may here be observed that the leaves of tea 

 have no kind of fragrance in their unmanipulated 

 state, but have a rank vegetable flavour both in 

 taste and smell. Nor is the fragrance which is 

 evolved previously to roasting in any degree cor- 

 respondent with that, at least in my opinion, which 

 constitutes the flavour of tea after complete desic- 

 cation. 



Thus the manipulation previously to roasting 



* Lap Sing says, " It is only a common kind of tea that 

 undergoes the process of Oc Ching, and which is consumed 

 principally at Su-chao, in Kiang Nan." It is true, there is a 

 particular kind of common tea called Hong Cha, or Red Tea, 

 which I have seen, and which is said to be made by a longer 

 continuance of the process of Oc Ching, which is the tea he al- 

 ludes to. But many Chinese affirm that the Paochong tea is co- 

 vered with a cloth, as already described, and others with a tray. 

 Nor does Lap Sing's own account differ very materially ; for he 

 admits that, after the process of To Ching, the leaves are col- 

 lected together and suffered to remain in a heap, which he 

 denominates Tuon Ching, during which the leaves become 

 fragrant, and spotted with red. The difference seems only in 

 degree. 



