DEVELOPED BY MANIPULATION. 115 



seems to be for the purpose of evaporating as much 

 of the fluids as possible without injury to the 

 odorous principle, or aroma ; or rather, perhaps, 

 to induce a slight degree of incipient fermentation, 

 or analogous change, which partakes of the sac- 

 charine fermentation of hay, during which the 

 requisite degree of fragrance is evolved. But 

 whatever that change may be to which the fra- 

 grance of smell, and the red or brown appearance 

 of the leaves, which constitute the peculiarity of 

 black tea, may be due, it is on the management of 

 this change that the quality of the Yen, or Padre 

 Souchong teas, greatly depends. To produce it 

 slowly, to know when to retard it, when to accele- 

 rate it, and in what degree, requires some expe- 

 rience ; and the Chinese universally consider the 

 management of the leaves of this fine tea previ- 

 ously to roasting, as the most important and diffi- 

 cult part of the whole manipulation. 



We also find that the leaves of these teas, which 

 are of great delicacy and succulency, and gathered 

 during a succession of bright weather, are kept in 

 small parcels ; and the highest degree of fragrance 

 and incipient chemical change, of which they are 

 susceptible without injury, is induced, besides being 

 exposed to more than ' ordinary heat in the first 

 process of roasting, denominated Ta Ching ; they 

 consequently receive much care and attention 

 throughout every stage of the manipulation. 



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