126 ROLLING OF THE LEAVES. 



form : and it is the test of a good workman to keep 

 the leaves well collected together under the hand, 

 and not allow them to stray and spread themselves 



over the tray ; for on this depends the leaves being 

 well or ill twisted. * When sufficiently rolled the 

 ball is shaken to pieces. The leaves are then found 

 twisted ; and the viscous juices expressed in the 

 process of rolling are sufficient to keep the leaves 

 in the twisted form. They are now spread out on 

 clean trays, and placed on stands several tiers in 

 height, until the whole of the fresh leaves have 

 been roasted, when they again undergo the process 



* Mr. Bruce describes the process of rolling very minutely 

 and well. " The art," as he observes, " lies in giving the heap, 

 or ball, a circular motion, permitting it to turn under and in the 

 hand two or three whole revolutions before the arms are ex- 

 tended to their full length, and drawing the leaves quickly 

 back 'without leaving a leaf behind. (Parliamentary Papers, 

 Feb. 1839. Tea Cultivation, p. 109.) 



Mr. Fortune, also very aptly compares this action to that of 

 a baker kneading his dough. ( Wanderings in China, 2d edit, 

 p. 196.) 



