SECOND ROASTING. 127 



of Chao. * In the second roasting of all tea, the 

 heat of the fire is considerably diminished, and 

 charcoal used instead of wood. The heat of the 

 vessel, however, is considerable, and not support- 

 able to the touch. The fire requires no particular 

 attention. The leaves having now been deprived 

 of a considerable quantity of moisture, their bulk is 



* It may here be observed that the form of a ball is not a 

 condition to which the Chinese attach any importance ; and that 

 may explain why they frequently make no mention of it. The 

 tiling sought by them is the expression of the juices of the 

 leaves to save expense and labour in the process of roasting, 

 the form of a ball is simply an accident, and the twisting of 

 the leaves also ; both arising out cf the peculiar mode adopted 

 by the Chinese in the process of rolling the leaves, and which 

 after all may turn out to be not the best method, although a 

 natural one, and such as in a rude state of society is likely to 

 be adopted. But if the mode of expressing the juices is to be 

 by hand, it must be evident that no better mode could be adopted 

 than that of collecting the leaves into such a heap or parcel 

 as the hands can cover, pressing, rolling, and keeping them in 

 as compact a form as possible under the hand: the rest follows 

 as a necessary consequence, arising out of the glutinous quality 

 of the leaves, as experiment will show. 



These remarks may also serve to prove the fallacy which has 

 so long existed, even to the present day, viz. that each separate 

 leaf undergoes a process of rolling between the fingers and 

 thumb of a female : an operose method which no cheapness of 

 labour, when compared with the known cost of manufacturing 

 tea, would serve to explain. 



It must be admitted, however, that the twisted form of the 

 leaf is now considered as a test of quality ; for experience has 

 shown, that the closely twisted leaves generally make the best 

 tea. The reason is, that good teas consist of the young leaves ; 

 and it is only the young, tender, and succulent leaves that can 

 be made to assume that form. 



