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employed, and not in the roasting, that tea more 

 frequently acquires a burnt smell and flavour. 



Thus I am disposed to think that the main object 

 which the Chinese have in view in the use of a 

 high temperature is, first, to drive off the elastic 

 fluids as rapidly as possible, as every part of the 

 process indicates. The act of rolling is simply 

 with a view of hastening the drying by expressing 

 the juices ; and, secondly, that the temperature of 

 the steam, and, moreover, that of the leaves them- 

 selves, may not attain a degree of heat which would 

 render the manipulation unmanageable. Expe- 

 rience has taught them that a high temperature 

 favours this object, and may be employed bene- 

 ficially, and without injury to the aroma. Perhaps 

 the best test for the temperature required, at least 

 the lowest temperature suitable, is that degree of 

 heat which bursts freely, quickly, and abundantly, 

 the parenchyma of the leaf ; and which bursting of 

 the leaf is the cause of the crackling noise decribed 

 by Koempfer. This rule is also in accordance 

 with an observation already made, that no fixed 

 measure of heat can be given ; the amount required 

 depends on the succulency and aqueous condition 

 of the leaves. 



If Pao chong tea is exposed to a higher tempera- 

 ture than any other tea, it is because the leaves are 

 of more luxuriant growth and greater succulency, 

 and also because a supposed chemical change has 

 been induced, and is going on in these delicate 



