BY MANIPULATION. 301 



an essential difference exists in the manipulation of 

 these teas sufficient to account mainly, if not en- 

 tirely, for their characteristic difference of flavour 

 and quality as classes. 



It has, moreover, been stated that the fresh 

 unmanipulated leaves have no kind of fragrance in 

 their natural state : and in this particular resemble 

 each other, before and after manipulation, no more 

 than the smell of grass resembles the odour of hay ; 

 the odour of tobacco before, that after fermentation ; 

 the flavour of barley, beer ; the juice of the grape, 

 the characteristic flavour of wine ; or the aroma of 

 coffee before, that after roasting. 



In black tea, we find a mild, bland, fragrant, and 

 agreeably astringent flavour, with a slight degree 

 of sweetness, and both leaf and infusion of a reddish 

 colour, apparently indicative of chemical change in 

 its original constituents : which change has now 

 been traced to a peculiar manipulation of the leaves 

 previously to roasting. 



But if we attentively observe the flavour of 

 Hyson tea, however agreeable it may be when 

 blended with rich cream and highly refined sugar, 

 it undeniably possesses a raw astringent quality, 

 and (if I may be allowed the expression without 

 exciting alarm) even a poisonous flavour, which 

 reminds one of the flavour of bitter almonds, of 

 peach kernels, and laurel leaves. The manipulated 

 leaf also retains much of its original colour, and 

 the infusion is pale and yellow. Thus, both leaf 



