1276 



PERFUMERY GARDENING 



alteration taking place 



is not that of the flowers, 

 during,' the distillation. Orange-tlo 

 ing of the condensed Taper of water with a little un- 

 changed oil adhering, affords the true odor of the 

 By maceration, likewise, the true floral fra- 

 ohtuuuMl. Tl,,. ahortivc flowers which fall 

 •"'''"" •■"■'■ ■'■ ^"^■"•'- l"i' i" , fii,,,,.,-y use, but the 

 ',','. iiniably with a 



■ i ! i 111 imd flowers, 



•'"*' .^ 'i-.^' I >, i_^ I'lutM.I inun the sweet 

 '"■'i"'ii ilie oil of "petit 

 minor value. There is 

 y capacity of American 

 been asserted that the 

 1 in swpftiiess those of 

 ' iliioi iiK,. something 

 ' i ' ■ -x'.l in Florida 

 ' i ' I and flowers, 

 """' - ■"■'• at present 



grance 

 from th 



better r. 

 the leui 



he lemon verbena, Mpp 

 ■ be mentioned in passim 



passing 



grain," of considerable though 

 no reason to doubt the perfume 

 orange groves. Indeed it has 

 orange flowers of Louisiana ex, 

 foreign parts. In Los Ail. I 

 has been done towards ii! 1 1 . 

 a beginning has been niMcl. i- 

 but for the most part tli. -, i 

 suffered to go to waste, 



Th 

 may 



five perfume of the citrous order 

 least in Florida an. I f'aliforuia. 



The p,.,runHry ,,n„l„..ts of the ros 



^ulrut'V '■'""';'"■"■ ''^y. '^^'"« "f the importation of 

 attar ot i.,.-,, ,-t,, sav iiuthiug of rose perfume in other 

 »? tl l"'^^''"^^''*-"* f "^ '"'^ "'"^'^ citrous perfume, and 

 at the same tune the capacity of this country for pro- 

 ducing this and the other rose perfumes can scarcely 

 be called m question. The present supply of the 

 European and American markets is derived chiefly from 

 Turkey and from the perfumery region of the south of 

 France. The attar or otto of roses is produced most 

 largely in Bulgaria and other parts of European Turkey 

 w^l^*" f,''""'^'^ '•«s<^- It is obtained by distillation,' 



which IS rh»ir« /./^Yl.1.l«*■«.^ :_ _ _-.,i^ _ ^ ■ . ' 



citriodora {Fig. 1721), 

 furnishing an attrao- 

 as available at 



and its allies 



which is there conducted in a rude manner In 

 Grasse district (south of France), the rose water ob- 

 tained as explained above, yields more profit than the 

 attar, which is regarded as a by-product of the distilla- 

 tion. But the rose perfume is here largely extracted 

 t'^*"'"? ^'"* enfleurage, processes 

 odor, which is not repre- 



which secure the true 



sented by the attar or water. The pomadi 



ad its 



PERFUMERY GARDENING 



iin.s, ft^arj/o,;,-,,,,, capitatum [l) and P. i.V- 

 UK.'.il'.i^^';'! ,'1'\ f™"'■'''.^f''''''*'■°s««'""'isla^gely 

 t , Vm ■' ; ' ''^" "*'■ f»f >t- Though generally not sold 

 ' ""'7'."^ ""'" name, it is in itself a legitimate 



1' 1 iii.r ,1,1,1 lis production should be undertaken in 

 lonVse "< ;? „^ln' ?J ''°!1<^^^'-' i" ^^^ South, where the 

 long season admits of three crops of leaves and where 

 the stumps with the soil heaped around them will sur 

 W? *^' K™.'?.""- /'^'^ '''^S^^' ""P i^ to beTad on rich 

 es';'fer^ile"io';f„rt°'f "^^'"^ is. Pfoduced on drier anS 



by the admixture of oil from drier locations The rose 

 geranium is largely grown in Algeria, and in Snaln 

 tMcily, etc as well as in France. Geranium oi? inC; 



from*!?;-*'''""'''' .""'""g^l^i^h the oil of lemo^grass 

 from India is conspicuous. 6 « ^ 



thPfi '^"™P™" , s^^eet violet, Viola odorata, afi^ords 

 ilitr r , /"'■""l'''^' "f ■' tavonte type of odors quite 

 ,. I ,' I '"." ""■ 'I"""- :iiul the rose. The oil of the 

 us,','i ' 'n T' '"■'■'-''■"■'ly «" expensive as to be little 

 'till. HI '''''"-' ''1'""""^ "'' flowers required and the 

 sml'll 'h 'IL V ' "V'^'-'ssary for gathering such 



aDDarentlv n' . ^flV''^ ."" ^ separate stem, are 



apparently insurmountable obstacles to the extensive 



^he're^ 'T "'' "^ "°'^'- »'"' '' "«y ^e presumed hat 

 there will permanently be a class of buyers willing to 

 pay the necessary cost of so choice a perfume. The 

 violet yields its full fragrance only southward, but it 



aim f tf ""^" ?.'"''"•:' ^'""'•'- '^■^'■" '"»«"• conditions 

 admit, true violet perfume may be produced in Cali- 

 fornia and in the South. An expert grower of violets 

 has even thought that they might be grown under glass 

 tor this purpose. e »•» 



tn^'f!!!.*' ^Tf S^"^™' type and in some wise a substi- 

 tute tor violet perfume, is that of Acacia Farnesiana 

 the "cassie" of the French, known in the South as 

 opoponax." The small yellow balls of flowers are 

 y^the grease processes, particularly macera- 

 , .g]^ ^^ violet, the perfume 

 nd produced in large 

 ■ith proper care have a 

 opoponax tree grows 



The Provence 



here employed, a hybrid 

 variety of the hundred-leaf, RosS c'entifolia Ihl 

 PU.t *!!■'■ *'''' <=^'^'«'ge and moss roses belong. 



Pictures of this rose present, not the well-known door- 

 yard variety with short and crowded petals forming a 

 flat disk without visible stamens, but a variety with 

 arger and looser petals of a deeper color, with stamens 

 in the middle. Both this and the damask rose are 

 spring bloomers, the latter yielding also a small crop in 



the fall, 



The luxuriance of rose: 

 through the South invites e 

 to ascertain their perfiimp 



I localities Americt 

 ith the European, 

 ized for perfume c 



on the Pacific coast and 

 xperiments in those regions 

 ■y worth. Affluent vegeta- 

 ns pn.i.f of a rich perfumery 

 ■ ilir.ctly investigated by the 

 'inn.iital distillation. There 

 liiiw.\ir, that in properly 

 1 roses can compete in sweet- 

 How far north the rose can 

 nnot be settled in advance of 

 .'inno'sT"- 1 '.'"r ';""'■',""■"' '''»^« "■ ''Ot S"n. but the 

 tu-i. Irirv. M ' " ''" \ '""''''• '""' ■'" •'•" most only 



di,,'^// l' '^ ' ' ; .I'll \ i;i,- ii,,. advantage of 



^^Ijll ,'ji^. ' ' ■"'■'' ■'" iiii^'l'i III- supposed. 



■ "^ !''' -ii.ri"'!' I- ili,ii "III- roiiiinM- rose industry 



,, , "' "''■■■ 'I Hi ""I- warmer sei-iions. The soil for 



II <••-'■ i.iii~t ii.it be poois but there is a possibility of 

 \VI " "i" , I'l" •'" ''^^t perfumery results. 



"lull- clistiii,aii,,,i seems to be practically confined to 

 nil- two rosis mentioned above, other kinds whose odor 

 IS attractive are available for treatment by the urease 

 processes. There appears to be little in the methods of 

 cultivating roses for this purpose which would not sug- 

 ■fnnn'^'"' i "J" '''<I\"'ienced gardener. It takes some 

 .t,000 pounds of petals to yield a pound of oil, but that 

 pound should be worth at retail about ninety dollars, and 

 more if of extra quality. 

 The oil distilled froii the green parts of the common 



treated 



tion. While not ranked 

 is in entirely good standing 

 quantities. The flowers dried 

 market value for sachets. T: 

 freely in Florida, is apparently native in Tex; 

 suited to the climate of Arizona and southern Cali- 

 fornia. The labor of picking the flowers would be 

 somewhat expensive. Several other acacias are eligible 

 for perfumery use. 



To the same group belongs the perfume of orris or 

 ins root. It IS afforded by the rootstocks of three 

 species of Ins, formerly gathered wild and now culti- 

 vated near Florence and at other points in Italy. The 



species are /„.. a,r, ;„., , pjg. 1178), I . pallida , ^ul 



1. J'lorentun: , 1 i^. I, i , ih,. Hrst of these being our 

 aTaw"/""'" ' ' ' ' ''I' '^''"' fi"^^'^^*'' the second 



H^h „,^tr " 'I'ird having whiteflowers. 



High author,.;. ;,ii,,i,,, ,h,„ ,,i,e use of the first two 

 species IS only a falsification, and in fact that the root 

 of /. Germanica causes serious inflammations It is 

 certain that the first two are extensively grown ; but 

 1. Jilorentvna alone appears to be much used for dis- 

 tillation. When cultivated the Iris is generally propa- 

 gated by root division, the cuttings being placed for 

 ii" ^/'* y?^-- 1" a nursery, afterward set in rows a foot 

 apart. It is grown in stony dry soils on hillsides or 



TarfThe ^'Vr '" ^'""'T? ""'^^ in two or three' 

 years The , ui W,. ,s s,ra,„.,l from the root, which 

 after being dn, ,1 m tl„. .„„ is stored in a dry place for 

 hedevelopm,.,,, of i,. f|.„;,.,.„„,e. This is wanting in 

 the fresh root, a„,l ,lo,.s ,„„ reach its maximum under 

 ti'r'irj?-?-- ^Vben distilled the root yields "orris but- 

 ter," but It IS more largely used in the form of an alco- 

 holic tincture or ground up for sachets. There is no 

 r„rto° 7^7- ""■'" ''°''* ,'•"'"''' ""t be grown in many 

 not far e ''"""fy- "^"t the returns at present are 



Another important group of perfumery plants con- 

 sists ot several members of the mint family. Pepper- 

 mint and spearmint (Fig. 1.392) can hardly be placed in 

 the perfumery class, but lavender, thyme and rosemary 

 could not easily be spared from the perfumer's re- 

 sources. Lavender is native on dry slopes in the Medi- 

 terranean region, and the oil is most largely produced 



