8 SPORT IN THE HIGHLANDS OF KASHMIR chap. 



which had been beside us the whole way from Kohala. 

 We reached Sopur at the edge of the Wular lake 

 about 11.30 P.M. It was important to get as far as this 

 before tying up for the night, for the boatmen will not 

 cross the lake except in daylight and when there is no 

 wind. As a rule the calmest time is in the morning. 



As it happened, however, the morning of the 22nd 

 dawned in wind and rain, and we could not move till 

 about 2.30 P.M., when it partially cleared. Then we 

 crossed the lake, and as rain again came on, tied up 

 for the night. This latter proceeding surprised me a 

 good deal, for the boatmen had practically done nothing 

 all day ; but I soon learned that Kashmiris cannot be 

 induced to work in rain — no pay being apparently 

 sufficient to induce them to do anything so disagreeable. 



Meantime I had been finding out a good deal in 

 connection with my projected expedition. Merewether 

 had engaged for me, and brought with him to Bara- 

 mulla, a shikari whom he had employed during the 

 cold weather, a Kashmiri Mahomedan named Abdulla. 

 As it appeared that more than one sportsman had already 

 left Srinagar for the shooting grounds, it became necessary 

 to make arrangements as rapidly as possible. In Kash- 

 mir, shooting is mostly to be found in certain well-known 

 nalas or valleys amongst the hills. This is always the 

 case in ibex ^ shooting, and generally with regard to other 

 game also. And as the man who first pitches his tent in 

 a nala has the exclusive right to its shooting till he leaves, 

 it becomes of the first importance to get early to a place 

 for which there is likely to be competition. 



1 Capra sibirica. A species of wild goat. 



