12 SPORT IN THE HIGHLANDS OF KASHMIR chap. 



night or two. But I found that I did not need it, for 

 either there was no difficulty in taking the 30-lb. tent 

 wherever required, or it was simpler to sleep under a 

 rock or in the open without a tent at all. I should, there- 

 fore, not recommend the 1 2-lb. valise tent to be included 

 in any outfit required for Kashmir. 



Early on the 24th we woke to find the boats moored 

 at the end of the canal communicating with the Jhelum 

 below the Munshi Bagh. The house-boat had been 

 brought here to avoid the current in the main channel of 

 the river, which flows past the principal shops. 



Leaving the boats to be towed up the canal to the 

 Munshi Bagh, we took a shikara — the gondola of Srinagar 

 — and went shopping. We ordered warm suits for our two 

 Hindustani servants, another for Abdulla (who met us 

 here), some Kashmir blankets (locally called luis), and a 

 lot of other things, details of which are given in the 

 closing chapters of this book. 



The rest of that day was taken up with arranging about 

 a site for my wife's camp, hiring furniture and servants 

 for her, getting our tents from the carriers, etc., etc. In 

 the afternoon I called on the courteous British Joint 

 Commissioner for Leh, Captain Chenevix- Trench, and 

 obtained written orders (parwanas as they are usually 

 called) addressed to the Tehsildar of the Sind valley, the 

 Tehsildar of Skardo, and the Lambardar of Haramosh, 

 the local officials into whose jurisdictions I was about to 

 travel, directing them to aid me in all reasonable ways in 

 the matter of carriage and supplies. Parwanas are of 

 considerable assistance to the stranger travelling in these 

 wild tracts, for without local help it would be impossible 



