PREPARATIONS FOR LEAVING SPIN AGAR 13 



to move at all. Though a European would generally be 

 treated with respect anywhere in Kashmir, the parwana 

 removes all possible excuse for neglect, and enables the 

 Srinagar authorities to take action on complaints in 

 a way that would not be possible if it had not been 

 issued. Besides these, my old friend Dr. Deane, the 

 Residency Surgeon, to whose kind advice I was greatly 

 indebted, had obtained for me a parwana signed by the 

 Governor of Kashmir, directing that I was to be assisted 

 generally throughout the Maharaja's dominions in the 

 matter of supplies and carriage. On more than one 

 occasion I found that when difficulties were made, the 

 threat to report to Srinagar that the parwanas were of 

 no use in such and such a district, had a surprising effect 

 in producing coolies and ponies, where at first there were 

 alleged to be none. 



On the 25th I arranged my wife's tents close to a 

 magnificent pair of chenar trees in the Munshi Bagh, 

 where ladies and married couples generally camp in 

 Srinagar. The previous day I had left my measure with 

 a Kashmiri tailor for a pair of knickers and a Norfolk 

 jacket, of puttoo, a locally made woollen cloth something 

 like tweed. These were produced finished by the evening 

 of the 25th, and proved an excellent fit. The same man 

 also supplied me with a double broad-brimmed cloth hat. 



Meantime I had, besides settling my wife's camp, 

 bought all that was recommended in the matter of leather 

 goods, provisions, etc., and had caused everything I 

 required with me to be loaded on a boat preparatory to 

 leaving after dinner. 



About 10 P.M., my bed having been made, I went on 



