20 SPORT IN THE HIGHLANDS OF KASHMIR chap. 



are made of coarse puttoo, with leather soles and leather 

 part of the way up the feet. They are pleasant on a 

 cold night, and though not intended to stand any rough 

 work, will last a considerable time if worn only in a tent. 



Ramzana soon sent in an excellent dinner of mutton 

 broth, kidney on chupatti, roast leg of mutton and 

 potatoes, custard pudding, and marmalade. There was 

 no butter, as it cannot be procured good in a Kashmiri 

 village, and I dislike tinned butter. Instead of bread I 

 had chupatties. These things, so excellent when hot 

 and properly made, so tough and leathery when cold 

 or badly made, are prepared from flour or whole meal 

 and water, and cooked on a flat iron girdle. They are 

 usually about ^ or J of an inch thick, and about 8 inches 

 in diameter. Mine were supposed to be made from flour, 

 and flour was what I was charged for ; but from the 

 appearance and taste of the chupatties there must have 

 been a great deal of bran mixed with that flour. 



Before daybreak of the 27th I was awakened by hearing 

 Abdulla arranging the loads. He had got six ponies, 

 and the men were loading up some of the boxes when I 

 came out of my tent. I had my chota hazri, as the early 

 morning meal is called in India, under a tree while my 

 tent was being struck, and by 7 a.m. we were all ready to 

 start. 



The six ponies carried what the sixteen coolies had 

 taken the previous day, and as each coolie had cost four 

 annas a stage, and the charge for each pony for the same 

 distance was only eight annas, the change in carriage was 

 economical. 



About a mile beyond Mangam I struck the Sind 



