CONTENTS 



CHAPTER I 



MARCH 15-25 LUCKNOW TO SRINAGAR 



Start — Ekkas — -Kohala — Garhi — Uri — Rope bridges — BaramuUa — Dungas — Shoot- 

 ing grounds- — Haramosh — Conditions of journey — Tents — Srinagar — Parwanas 

 — Shopping — Battery . ....... Page i 



CHAPTER H 



MARCH 26-28 SRINAGAR TO SHITKURI 



Kashmir laziness — Tiffin coolie — Lui — Rice straw for grass shoes — Wet day — Man- 

 gam — First camp — Ponies — Mr. Jebb— Serwan — Gund — Difficulty about 

 coolies — Rezin — Snow — Sonamerg Gorge — Shitkuri — Native hut . 16 



CHAPTER HI 



MARCH 29-31 SHITKURI TO DRAS 



Grass'shoes — Carriage of bedding — Sonamerg — Coloured spectacles — Baltal — Mr. 

 and Mrs. Renton — The rest-house^ — The coolie's room — Discomfort — Jebb's 

 snov/ blindness-^Early start — Crossing the Zogi La — Machahoi — Mataiyun 

 — Pandras — Dras rest-house ........ 29 



CHAPTER IV 



APRIL 1-7 DRAS TO THURGON 



Delay in getting coolies — Quarters at Duldul — Serai at Tashgam — Kharbu — Dirty 

 Serai there — Hardas — Badness of road — Character of the villages — Advancing 

 summer — Mashung — Bagicha — Changing boots — Kharmang— Tolti — Parkutta 

 — Thurgon .......•••• 43 



