40 SPORT IN THE HIGHLANDS OF KASHMIR chap. 



Altogether, as we laughingly remarked to each other, on 

 starting after breakfast, we presented a comical, though 

 very business-like appearance. 



Most of the way to Dras, about 6 miles on and 

 1 7 from Machahoi, the snow continued to fall, and we 

 arrived at that comparatively large village about 6.30 

 P.M., very wet and tired. The shikari and Ramzana had 

 gone on ahead, to give notice of our coming, and on my 

 arrival, a little before the Rentons, the Thanadar, as the 

 local official ^^in charge here is called, came to meet me, 

 and said that there was "ample accommodation " in the 

 rest-house. 



This imposingly named building was flat - roofed, 

 like all others in this neighbourhood, and contained 

 many straggling rooms. The snow had been mostly 

 removed from against the walls and off the roof, but lay 

 in heavy drifts all round. Descending from its level to 

 that of the doorway, I entered a windy sort of corridor, 

 where a good part of the floor was covered with ice, 

 owing to the drip from the roof having frozen. Here 

 I was told the loads would be placed for the night. 

 Beyond this was a doorless aperture, which led into an 

 earthen-floored room about 12 feet square, with a small 

 unglazed window near the top of the wall, a hole in the 

 middle of the roof, and a fireplace provided with a 

 chimney. This, I was told, was the place I was to 

 occupy, and it had been prepared for my reception a few 

 minutes before my arrival, by the removal of certain 

 coolies, the dying embers of whose fire were then filling 

 the place with smoke, and the odour of whose presence 

 still hung heavy about the apartment. A larger cham- 



