CHAPTER IV 



APRIL 1-7 DRAS TO THURGON 



Delay in getting coolies — Quarters at Duldul — Serai at Tashgam — Kharbu 

 — Dirty Serai there — Hardas — Badness of road — Character of the 

 villages — Advancing summer — Mashung — Bagicha — Changing boots 

 — Kharmang — Tolti — Parkutta — Thurgon. 



The next morning, the ist of April, I was up about six, 

 and had everything ready to start in an hour. But we 

 were much later getting off, for the Thanadar had difficulty 

 in obtaining the fresh coolies that are required here, to 

 take the place of those that had come with us from 

 Gund, and who were now to be discharged. To the 

 twelve coolies who had slept on the road on the 28th, and 

 left me without my bedding that night, I gave only the 

 bare Rs.2.8 prescribed by the printed tariff, but the others 

 got a present in addition. 



About 10 A.M. we started, and had a bad time, 

 floundering along through the soft snow. Going ahead of 

 the Rentons about noon, I reached the village of Duldul, 

 8 miles on, about 2.30 p.m., and here resolved to stay for 

 the night, as owing to the late start we should have been 

 unable to get to Tashgam, the usual stage, till after 

 dark. There being no rest-house, I selected two rooms 



