GOL TO THURGON 55 



it SO as to see to eat my chota hazri. This usually con- 

 sisted of two or three hard-boiled eggs, a few cold 

 chupatties left from the preceding night's dinner, and 

 (till I learned that tea was better) a couple of cups of 

 cocoa and milk. By the time it was finished most 

 of the loads were ready, and often some had started. 



By 9.15 we had done the 11 miles to Gol, and as 

 usual had breakfast while the fresh coolies were being 

 brought. Then, having had a couple of hours' rest, we 

 went on, and about 3.30 p.m., after a litde over four 

 hours' walking, reached Thurgon, about 12 miles 

 further. Here there was some difficulty about fresh 

 coolies, and we had to halt, though I was anxious to get 

 as far as Skardo, about 9 miles beyond. That night 

 we all dined together, for the last time as it proved after- 

 wards. Indeed, I did not, as it happened, meet the 

 Rentons again till I reached Leh early in July. 



