CHAP. V THE ROPE BRIDGE AT RONDU 67 



progressed. The bridge sagged down in the middle to 

 within 30 feet or so of the water. Unless there was a wind 

 it did not sway much, and the danger of crossing was 

 more apparent than real. Though the structure looked 

 very flimsy when viewed from a distance, its immense 

 strength was evident the moment the traveller arrived 

 close. I had never crossed one of these bridges before, 

 but found no difficulty in following the shikari over. 

 That night I slept between three large rocks above the 

 Rondu village, and before lying down arranged with 

 the Thanadar for a couple of ponies and a change of 

 coolies for the next morning. The distance we had 

 covered that day is under 1 7 miles on the map, but the 

 march was a very severe one. 



I was called about 5 a.m. on the morning of the loth, 

 and found that the last night's fire near my bed had been 

 replenished, and was burning brightly. I had seen it 

 well scattered the night before when lying down, for 

 fear sparks should come on to my bedding, which for the 

 sake of warmth and light had been spread very close to 

 it. The morning was raw and cold, and I was glad of 

 the heat it imparted, and the light it gave to dress by. 

 Day had broken by the time my clothes were on, and 

 after chota hazri, the shikari mounted one pony and I 

 another, and followed by the two permanent coolies and 

 two village men with the loads, we started. There was 

 no need to have got these ponies, for they were only able 

 to go about 2 miles, when we came to a rope bridge, a 

 little lower down the river than the one we had crossed by 

 the previous night. By this we crossed back to the 

 right bank of the Indus, and as before, Chand, the tiffin 



