XIII GURAIS 217 



Abdulla had consistently maintained that the track was 

 bad and involved a difficult Pass. I had suspected that 

 this was false, and only said, so as to induce me to go 

 through Bandipur ; but knowing that if the Kashmiris 

 were forced to go via Tilail they would probably turn rusty, 

 and delay me more that way than if I went by Bandipur, 

 I had not pressed the point. At Gurais, however, I 

 learned that a sportsman had recently arrived from Dras, 

 and reported the track a good one ! The incident did 

 not improve my opinion of the Kashmiri. 



Gurais is a pretty spot, a broad valley some five miles 

 long and in parts a mile wide, on the left bank of the 

 Borzil river. Two visitors to Kashmir were camped 

 here, the place being a favourite resort in the hot 

 weather. The village is a very large straggling one, 

 formed, like all others in this side neighbourhood, of log- 

 huts, and boasts a post-office and telegraph station. 



That was a day of wonderful luxury. After the 

 couple of months of rough camping, it was quite curious 

 to sit on a chair at a civilised table, to see bright silver 

 and polished knives, and a tablecloth, and lamps with 

 shades. The tent I was given looked, too, so luxurious, 

 with a bed, and sheets, and a toilet-table with a white 

 cover, and a pincushion ! Also the smoking was very 

 pleasant. I am one of those unfortunate men, the steadi- 

 ness of whose hand is affected by tobacco ; when I want, 

 therefore, to use a rifle well I always have to give up 

 smoking, so, to insure freedom from temptation on this 

 expedition, I had left my tobacco in Srinagar, Naturally, 

 therefore, I thoroughly appreciated Mitchell's cigars. 



On the 27th I did not start till after breakfast, as 



