CHAP. XIV GAGANGAIR TO THE ZOGI LA ii\ 



I resolved to stop for the night. It was quite cool and 

 pleasant after sunset. The previous night, too, on the 

 water had proved very cool, and I was not annoyed by a 

 single mosquito — a thing which surprised me a good deal. 



On the 29th we made a long march of about 25 

 miles, going as far as Gagangair, and using pony trans- 

 port, which I succeeded in obtaining from this on, the 

 whole way to Leh. At Gagangair I found Major and 

 Mrs. Hughes- Hallett encamped, and had a pleasant 

 dinner with them. Next morning a walk of 10 miles 

 through the loveliest scenery of the Sind valley brought 

 me to Sonamerg. Here I made the acquaintance of Mr. 

 Lewes of the Royal Scots Fusiliers, who was encamped 

 in the neighbourhood, and who hospitably gave me 

 breakfast and lunch. About 3.30 p.m. I walked on 10 

 miles to Baltal, at the foot of the Zogi La, through more 

 pretty scenery. Very different everything looked that 

 afternoon, from what the appearance had been when I went 

 the same route at the end of March. Then nothing but 

 snow was visible, and an icy wind was blowing down the 

 Pass. At the end of June everything was green, and the 

 hillsides covered wnth flowers. There was no snow except 

 on the highest peaks and in a few shady hollows, and 

 high up on the mountain sides groups of grazing ponies 

 were to be seen, whose owners were camped below 

 cookinof their evening meal. 



The next day's march (ist of July) took us over the 

 Zogi La. The road ascends by a zigzag above the gorge, 

 the latter forming the path at other seasons when it 

 is full of snow. A little frozen snow was crossed in a 

 few places, and there was some lying on the watershed 



