XV GREAT CHANGE OF TEMPERATURE 251 



burhel, but nothing of the game we wanted, so we 

 returned to the main camp about 3.30 p.m. 



A riding saddle had been procured for me from 

 Kharnak, and I used it that day. It consisted of 

 wooden panels with high wooden pommel and cantle. 

 On one side it boasted an iron stirrup tied on with a 

 piece of thick string ; on the other side a loop of string 

 was the only support for the foot. 



That morning the thermometer had been 39'' in the 

 tent when I got up, and fell to 33° when I took it into 

 the verandah outside. Yet when I was having my 

 tub, about 4,30 P.M., in the small 30-lb. tent, it rose 

 to 98°. 



The 22nd saw us back in the Pogmore La nala ; we 

 went along the northern slopes, but kept low. I was 

 astonished at the number of hares I saw. I counted 

 twenty-eight before we got to the top of the Pass, and 

 saw two more on the way home. There were also a 

 few marmots. As usual the two shikaris worked like a 

 pair of pointers in front, and stopped several times to 

 examine things which turned out to be kyang. 



Shortly after crossing the Pass we found fresh signs 

 of the Ovis ammon, soft droppings and hoof marks on 

 the ground. Rupsang, as his way was, when he found 

 fresh tracks, or thought he was near game, at once took 

 off his cap and talked only in a whisper. He sat down 

 on the ground and began squeezing the droppings in his 

 fingers to show how fresh they were, and then led the 

 way on the track, going on tiptoe with his long hair 

 streaming in the wind. Before starting I was made to 

 load the rifle, that is, fill the magazine, as it was evidently 



