XVI THE ZAK 285 



backs, and partly on the zak. The water was above 

 the middles of the men. 



At eleven o'clock I called out to have the zak brought 

 over to our side, and after I had photographed it, 

 my wife and I were taken across. On examination, the 

 zak was found to consist of eight or ten inflated goat- 

 skins (with the hair left on), on which a few sticks were 

 tied to form a sort of platform. Our united weight, 

 together with that of some numdah pack-saddles given 

 us to sit on, brought the platform almost down to the 

 edge of the water. Two men walked through the water, 

 pulling the zak after them, and singing a monotonous sort 

 of chant all the time. This indeed proved to be the 

 custom with all crossing the ford, for not only did the 

 men pulling the zak sing, but also the men who carried 

 our things over on their backs, and even ordinary 

 travellers, whom we met fording the river when we were 

 being taken across. On reaching the other bank, we had 

 our breakfast sitting on a grassy mound by the water, 

 while the rest of our luggage was brought over. The 

 heat was quite exceptional. There was a bright sun 

 and little wind, and no shelter was anywhere to be 

 had. 



In the meantime the shikaris had got hold ot the 

 Nimu headman, and made him collect the yaks we 

 required, and bring them down to the water's edge, where 

 they were quickly loaded. 



We started about one o'clock, and after a hot and 

 tiring march up the Indus of nine miles over glaring sand, 

 arrived at a place called Nowi, where we found excellent 

 grass and a clear spring. The place is used as a grazing 



