XVII THE KUGRANG NALA 299 



to dine in the verandah as usual, but had to go right 

 inside. 



During the night the rain changed to snow, and when 

 we woke on the 22nd we found the tent quite white, 

 though the ground was only wet. The thermometer 

 registered 40° F., but it felt very much colder. It was 

 spitting snow, too, and the air was so raw and cold that 

 it was with great difficulty the yak-men could be roused 

 to go for the transport animals, which of course being 

 loose, as usual, during the night, had wandered off some 

 distance to graze. This made us late in starting, and 

 we did not get off till just ten o'clock. 



For some time after I continued to wear, though 

 walking, the heavy ulster I had started in. About noon 

 we found some low walls of stones, and were thankful to 

 obtain shelter behind them from the cruel wind while we 

 had our breakfast. It was a curious situation. The sun 

 was blazing down on us, and a metal napkin ring got so 

 hot we could hardly touch it. At the same time, if I 

 raised my head above the wall my nose felt as if it would 

 be skinned by the bitter wind. We made a short march, 

 and camped at a grassy spot about 8 miles up the 

 Kugrang nala. No game was sighted en route. 



On the 23rd we only went about 6 miles up the nala, 

 for fear that the camp would be seen or winded by any 

 game that might be about at the upper end. Having 

 ponies we knew we could go a good way beyond in the 

 course of a day. We found a nice piece of grass close 

 to the river and fairly sheltered, where we resolved to 

 stay for a few days while we explored the nalas around ; 

 for at this point, besides the main nala, we saw several 



