XXVI SUPPLIES 453 



which a Kashmiri cook makes into ghi^ for frying. Sheep 

 and kabanis can always be obtained, but there is difficulty 

 sometimes about the other things. In many villages 

 there are no fowls. On the Ladak shootine grounds no 

 supplies but sheep and milk are locally procurable, and 

 sometimes, as in Changchenmo, even these cannot be 

 had. Everything else has to be taken from Leh. There 

 all the things obtainable in Baltistan are to be found. In 

 the spring in Baltistan wild rhubarb is fairly common, 

 and in some places wild onions. I used both these 

 whenever I got the chance, and while they were tender 

 enough to eat, but there is no other vegetable food to be 

 had there except kabanis. Consequently a good supply 

 of tinned vegetables should be taken. I found com- 

 pressed vegetables very useful in soup. Bacon was 

 another thing I placed great reliance on. 



Ordinarily while I was alone my chota hazri con- 

 sisted of a slice of fried bacon, two or three cold 

 chupatties, and tea, sometimes jam being added, but 

 never milk or butter. At breakfast I usually had some 

 slices of mutton, cut from the preceding night's joint, 

 heated in the frying-pan, with a few boiled potatoes. 

 Rarely there were a couple of onions fried with the other 

 things. Cold chupatties, jam, and tea finished up the 

 meal. At dinner there was generally soup, a roast joint 

 of mutton, hot potatoes, hot chupatties, and stewed 

 kabanis. Instead of the joint I sometimes had curried 

 mutton and rice, and (when near a village where milk 

 could be procured) rice pudding occasionally took the 

 place of kabanis. Sometimes wild rhubarb, stewed, 



1 Clarified butter. 



