492 SPORT JN THE HIGHLANDS OF KASHMIR chap. 



at the rates they are asked until they have had an 

 opportunity of consulting this useful book. For instance, 

 at Baramulla, when engaging boats, no fixed sum should 

 be agreed to, but the boatmen told that they will be paid 

 at Srinagar whatever has been fixed by the Durbar as 

 the correct amount. When making double and treble 

 marches carriage is changed at the different stages as 

 far as possible. In any case, whether changed or not, 

 payment is made, as a rule, according to the stages 

 travelled. The usual rates are, for coolies 4 annas a 

 stage, ponies 8 annas, and yaks the same. For some of 

 the stages which are longer than the others 6 annas have 

 been fixed for the coolie, and 12 annas for the pony or 

 yak. A coolie's load is 25 seers (50 lbs.) ; that of a pony 

 3 maunds (247 lbs.); and that of a yak 4 maunds (329 

 lbs.) Although it is well to have spare ropes, the 

 coolies, and pony and yak-men, generally have their own. 

 Balti coolies have special ropes of black wool, provided 

 with pieces of forked stick, which act as hooks in 

 fastening on the loads. The ponies and yaks all have 

 wooden pack - saddles, and the owners of the former 

 generally provide cloths of a kind of gunny (tat), 

 furnished with loops of rope, in which they lace up the 

 luggage that is to be carried. The yak-men usually give 

 the most trouble, as they often have an insufficiency of 

 ropes. 



I give below an estimate for a three months' trip to 

 Baltistan, based on the expenditure which I myself 

 incurred. This, it must be remembered, includes only 

 the money that would be actually spent during the time 

 in travelling, wages, living, etc. : — 



