is often the cause of much after trouble, in bringing back the tree to its 

 proper shape. Cutting off large lirubs during the winter season and excessive 

 pruning has the effect of making a brooin-like head, by inducing a number of 

 small branches to grow out, rendering the head of the tree impervious to sun 

 and air. As a rule, summer pruning, which is dope principally by pinching 

 the growing buds, promotes fruit bearing, whereas winter pruning promotes 

 wood growth. Nevertheless, winter is the season when superfluous branches 

 have to be removed and the excessive growth of the previous season cut back 

 to the required bounds. In removing large limbs, they should be sawed off 

 as near the trunk as possible, beginning on the lower side to prevent splitting, 

 after which the wound should be smoothed with a sharp knife and covered 

 with grafting wax or painted with some of the preparations recommended in 

 Bulletin No. 12. In cutting back the growth of the previous year, the cut 

 should be made close to a bud, generally an outer one, the cut being slightly 

 diagonal but nearly horizontal, so as to offer as little surface as possible 

 exposed. Always use a sharp knife, which should be kept exclusively for the 

 purpose. M. B. Curtis, Yakima, in a paper read before the Washington 

 Horticultural Society at Seattle, says, regarding pruning : 



" The first year after setting, head the shoots back from eight to twelve 

 inches, according to the vigour of the growth, those least vigorous to be 

 shortened in the most. Exercise the same care in reference to the terminal 

 bud and manner of cut as before. Care and judgment umst be exercised in 

 selecting the position of the bud. If straight shoots are desired, cut to 

 inside buds for trees of a spreading character like the Greening; or for 

 compact growers like the Northern Spy, cut to outside buds. It is best to 

 cut outside buds on the side next the wind, in order to throw the growth 

 toward the wind, and sometimes on the opposite side of the same tree it will 

 be necessary to cut inside buds to maintain an evenly balanced top. 



" The second year from planting the previous season's growth should be 

 headed back to about twenty inches, the less vigorous growth to be pruned 

 the most. Keep the length of the cut as nearly even as possible, varying, of 

 course, to suit the buds that come in the desired position. 



" Remove all cross branches and those having a tendency to grow 

 towards the centre of the tree, except the fruit spurs. These should not be 

 removed, even from the first year's growth. The fruit spurs are thrown out 

 straight from the trees and look like thorns or growth on seedlings. The 

 mistake is often made of removing these, and, in consequence, leaving long, 

 bare poles. 



" The third year from planting, shorten back to from two to three feet 

 of previous year's growth. This pruning applies to apples, pears and the 

 plum family. Cherry trees should be dropped from the list the first, and the 

 method of pruning them will not be handled in this paper. 



"This is the last of the shortening in on these varieties. With this, 

 the fourth season's growth, the head will be formed, if all has gone well, and 

 with the exception of an occasional refractory branch, which should be 

 shortened in, will not need to be touched. 



" The tree is now ready for fruiting. Commencing in June, pinch prune, 

 removing all superfluous growth, and keep the head symmetrical. This 



