1844.] 



THE CIVIL ENGINEER AND ARCHITECT'S JOURNAL. 



151 



member to put the middle of a panel opposite to the perpendicular steam 

 pipe. 



31. When you have found that the steam case is of a proper diameter and 

 lenp;th, or have adjusted it as has been directed, it must be made tight. Ma!<e 

 tlie joint between the panels, behind the perpendicular pipe and the upper 

 and under rings of the cylinder, by applying a proper thickness of paste- 

 board and putty, or soft roping, upon the cylinder rings, before you put up 

 these panels; or if you perceive that the joint will admit of it, yofi may 

 wind a soft rope, slackly twisted, once or twice all round the cylinder rings ; 

 then screw the perpendicular joints of the panels together Cputting in all tlie 

 screws) imtil the insides of the joints are quilc close, or as close as they will 

 admit; afterwards take oakum, mixed with some putty, made with thick 

 linseed oil; or a soft rope covered with putty, and, with a caulking chisel, 

 drive it forcibly into the joint, and continue caulking in, a little at a time, 

 until you have filled the joint quite to the outside of the llanches. Remember 

 to put oakum, or soft rope yarn, under the head and nut of each of the 

 screws ; and do not force the screws too much, lest you break the tlanches. 

 Trust, rather, to the caulking. In like manner you must make tight, by 

 caulking the joints between the steam case and the upper and under rings, 

 using a crooked chisel, for more conveniently getting at the under one. 



32. Put on the upper part of the lower nozzle, and make its joint. .Set on 

 the perpendicular steam pipe, and try the upper nozzle to its place ; if the 

 pipe prove too short, lead flanches of a proper thickness must be introduced, 

 equally above and below, to make up the length ; hut wherever lead flanches 

 be used where hot steam comes, it is necessary to put a thickness of paste- 

 board, with putty, on each side of them ; and the lead slioul<l be free from 

 tin. These lead flanches should be a little larger all round than the iron 

 flanches, that their edges may be rivetled up, afterwards, when any leaks are 

 perceived. If the pipe prove a little too long, the upper, or top nozzle, may 

 be raised a little higher than its natural joint, provided that the overlenglh 

 does not exceed an inch. The round llanch of the perpendicular steam pipe 

 goes uppermost. Four round holes must be drilled into the top of the upper 

 part of the lower nozzle, corresponding to four holes in tlie flanch of the 

 perpendicular pipe ; and they must be screwed together by screws, with 

 heads within the nozzle. Five screws may. in like manner, be put in the 

 flanch above. 



33. The cross pipe must next be put on, and its joint made, and the boiler 

 steam pipe must be screwed to one end of it, and the other, be shut by a 

 plate. If any of the joints are not of a proper angle, fill them up with lead. 



31. The steam must be made to communicate from some convenient place 

 of the cross pipe to the steam case, by means of a copper pipe, with their 

 copper flanches, which must be fixed to the cross pipe, and the steam case, 

 by small pierced glands, with a square hole in each end, to admit the square 

 necks of two screws, which being screwed at both ends, one end must be 

 screwed into the cast iron, (first tapped for that purpose.) and the other, 

 with a nut, serves to keep on the gland. Another similar, but smaller pipe, 

 must be fixed to the very lowest part of the steam case ; but it must be fixed 

 over the flanches, and be inserted into the perpendicular part of the outer 

 bottom, to fill it also with steam. In some cunvenient part of the outer 

 bottom, as low down as may he, must be fixed a waste pipe, to let out the 

 condenseil water. This waste pipe must reach down about five or six feet 

 and be bent upwards a little at the lower end, and be shut by a valve loaded 

 with a proper weight. This valve will open whenever the elasticity of the 

 steam, and the weight of the column of water, in the pipes, arc sufficient to 

 overcome the weight which shuts it. 



35. The condenser must now be put into its place, in its cistern. Its joints 

 may be put together, with pasteboard soaked in oil, as directed, and putty ; 

 and be firmly screwed up, and caulked afterwards. Or, any w here under 

 water, plates of lead may be used, about a quarter of an inch thick, well 

 fitted to the joints, and puttied on both sides. After the joints, made with 

 lead, are well screwed up, and the condenser warmed by fire or steam, the 

 edges of the lead, which had been left projecting a little, must be raised up. 

 both inside ami outside. A soft rope about half an inch diameter, coiled 

 round and round, until it covers the flanch, and well puttied, may be used 

 in default of pasteboard, or lead , but either of the two former are preferable, 

 and in every ease caulking or raising must be used. 



36. If the clack of the hot water pump has two valves, and is not sent 

 ready fitted, the heating, or fixed part, must be chiseled, and filed truly 

 flat. The pivots, or axes of the valves, must be from three-quarters to an 

 inch diameter, accordiug to the size of the engine ; the flat part of the iron 

 of the valve, about a quarter of an inch thick, the copper facing, one- 

 sixth of an inch ; and the iron plate, under it, also the sixth of an inch. 

 After the two iron plates and the copper facing are firmly rivetted together, 

 they must be heated red hot, laid on their place, a short piece of end wood 

 set above them, and beat down by some blows of a sledge hammer. The 

 pieces of iron, that the pivots move on, must be fixed by means of pins of 

 iron, half an inch or three-quarters square, screwed into the cast iron of the 

 clack, passing through a square hole in the pivot pieces, and forclocked above 



by spring cutters. Every one of these parts must be made very secure and 

 firm. A guard to prevent these valves from over opening, must be fixed in 

 the hot water pump. This guard may be about an inch thick, and should not 

 touch the edges of the valves, but catch them on the flat part, behind. The 

 cast iron face of the eductiou pipe foot must also be made flat, for the valve 

 there to beat against. The pivots of this valve should be one inch diameter. 

 The thickness for the iron, and copper, the same as for the others. The ends 

 of the valves should be one quarter of an inch clear of the sides ; and one 

 half inch clear of the bottom of the place it plays in. The pivots should be 

 sunk into the cast iron of the sides until their lower edges be within one 

 quarter of an inch of the opening of the beating part. They should have 

 one inch hold of the iron at each end, and have no play in that direction. 

 In the lid, or clack door lor this valve, there should he a groove, for the axis 

 of the valve, that it may not touch it, when the lid is screwed on. The pivots 

 should not be confined against the beating part, but should have a quarter 

 of an inch of play, in that direction, as the air makes its escape partly by 

 the hinge. The valves of the air and hot water pump buckets are to be fitted 

 in the same manner, remembering to make the pivots proportionable to the 

 size of the valves. 



37. The condenser being fixed in the cistern, at its proper height below the 

 nozzles, and at a proper distance from the centre of the gudgeon, or of the 

 cylinder, and in such manner, that the middle between the centres of the 

 pumps shall be directly under the middle of the working beam, and the line 

 between these centres, at right angles to the beam, the copper eduction pipe 

 must be fitted to its place. It must be screwed to the flanch of the short 

 pipe, under the nozzle, by means of a loose flanch of hammered or cast iron, 

 applied on the under side of the copper flanch of the pipe. The outside 

 diameter of the loose flanch must be the same as that of the flanch on the 

 nozzle; and its inside diameter must be one inch more than the outside 

 diameter of the bent copper pipe. Its inner angle should bo taken off a 

 little, on the side next the copper flanch, lest it should cut that flanch, or 

 crack the soldering. If the loose flanch be made of hammered Iron, it 

 should be three quarters of an inch thick, and the holes should be drilled and 

 not punched. In the same way, you must proceed with the joint, at the foot 

 of the eduction pipe. 



38. Having carefully tinned the inside ^of the upper end of the wide, or 

 perpendicular part, of the eduction pipe, and also the outside of the brass 

 ring which goes within it, the ring must be put into its place ; and, being 

 heated, the joint must be run with fluid tin solder ; after which, four, or 

 more holes may be drilled through both the copper and the brass, and some 

 copper rivets put in them. The spigot and fauset joints must he secured as 

 follows :— An iron ring, three or four inches broad, and half an inch thick, 

 must be put. red hoi, on the outside of the fauset part; that, by its con- 

 traction in cooling, it may grasp it firmly. The spigot part must then be 

 put in and made tight, by caulking in soft roping and putty. The proper 

 width of a joint for caulking, is three-sixteenths of an inch at the wide, or 

 open end ; and drawing quite close at the inner end , but it will dn. although 

 a little wider, or narrower. The joints of the bent part of the eduction 

 pipe, and perpendicular pipe, at the brass ring, must also be secured by 

 caulking. If, when the engine shall be set to work, any of the spigot and 

 fauset joints show a disposition to slide, or move, it may Ije cured, by putting 

 screw hoops round both the spigot and fauset parts, near to the joint ; and 

 pulling the joint together, by means of two screws, connected with the screw 

 hoops. In putting the eduction pipe together, care must be taken, to keep 

 the brased joint upwards ; that if any defects appear, they may be cured by 

 tin solder. When the eduction pipe is put together, a hole must be cut, in 

 such manner, as to fit the outside of the fauset, accurately. The fauset pipe 

 should point up the eduction pipe, in order that the injection water may 

 strike the upper side of the eduction pipe, within about two feet of the noz- 

 zle ; but care should be taken, that it do not spout too low ; otherwise, it 

 may, by the bent pipe, be reflected against the exhaustion regulator, whicli 

 will be very hurtful. The fauset pipe, being adjusted to its proper position, 

 and the knee of the eduction pipe tinned round the hole, the fosset must be 

 fixed in its place, either by a strong body of plumber's solder, or by a copper 

 boss, or case, run full of the same solder, heated to a dull red heat. The 

 upper edge of the inner end of the fauset should only go half an inch 

 within the eduction pipe; and the nozzle of the injection, not quite so far. 

 The injection pipe, being set in its true position, the joints soldered with 

 plumber's solder, and its valve soldered on, a hole must be cut into it for the 

 blowing pipe fauset, at, or about, the level of the valve of the injection ; not 

 lower; otherwise the engine will blow at the injection, and heat the cistern. 

 The fauset, for the blowing pipe, must be fixed by soldering, or by a boss, as 

 directed for the injection ; and its inner end ought not to go more than one 

 or two inclies within the eduction pipe, according to the diameter of that 

 pi[«. The blowing pipe may then be put together, and its valve soldered on, 

 taking care that the pipe be of such length, that its valve may be six inches 

 under the surtace of the water in the cistern. Care must be taken, that tlie 

 stems of both the blowing, and injection valves, stand nearly perpendicular, 

 when fixed in their places. Tlie injection and blowing pipes must be fixed in 



