TO CATCH A HOESE. 317 



her. If treated in like manner, the horse can be made to 

 come to his master, and follow him with aflection and con- 

 fidence. 



If the colt or horse is wild, and tries to pull away or keep 

 the head out of reach when approached, put on the War 

 Bridle, and train him until he will follow promptly. But 

 if so wild or vicious as to require general treatment, sub- 

 ject to either method most suitable until submissive, when 

 make the point of teaching to follow very thoroughly. 

 This will be easy enough, but we wish to do still more, 

 namely, to be able to walk up to the horse from some dis- 

 tance without his running away, also to make him come at 

 command, and stand quietly to be haltered. The course I 

 usually pursue is as follows : After making the horse fol- 

 low, lengthen the cord to seventy-five feet or more, and let 

 it drag on the ground. If I have not enough of the reg- 

 ular kind of rope, I attach a piece of bed-cord. The War 

 Bridle should be changed to the Second Form, to prevent 

 its slipping out of the mouth, with the part over the neck 

 placed well back. There is no difficulty in approaching 

 the horse Avithin the length of the cord (twelve or fourteen 

 feet) used in the training ; but when beyond this distance, 

 and especially when the horse once learns he is beyond 

 control, he will soon learn to keep out of reach. On this 

 account it is necessary to make the cord long enough to 

 convince him that he is within control when beyond this 

 distance. Step away twenty or thirty feet, and walk up 

 quickly toward him. If he turns to run, simply catch up 

 the cord and jerk the head around ; then approach, caress 

 him, give apples, etc., and walk away again. So repeat^ 

 going a little farther off" at each time, until at the end of 

 the cord. It is necessary, of course, to make this lesson 

 thorough, until the confidence of the horse is won. In 

 some cases it is advisable to go through with the form of 



