GRAFTING THE GRAPE. 71 



cut off a thin layer of bark along the underside of the cane, 

 which mil facilitate the emission of roots. At the end of the 

 summer or the following spring, this cane is cut from the paren 

 vine and will be found a well-rooted, strong plant. 



By the spring method. Fig. 55, as many plants may be pro- 

 duced from one layer as there are buds upon the cane laid down. 

 When the layer is to be made, a trench is dug six or eight inches 

 Jeep, in which is laid the cane of the last season's growth, fixing 

 it firmly in the bottom by the use of forked sticks or stones, as 

 shown at a, Fig. 55. This remains uncovered until the buds 

 have sent up about ten inches' growth, when the soil is thrown in. 



It will often be found that the buds near the parent vine and 

 those at the end of the cane will grow first and more strongly 

 than those in the center. To overcome this, the cane should be 

 bent up and the end stuck into the. ground, as shown at h, Fig. 55. 

 The bending checks the flow of sap at the end of the cane. The 

 sap rises more rapidly to the highest point and the result is an 

 increased growth of the center buds. 



At the end of the season, roots will be found coming from 

 around the base of each shoot, and by cutting the canes between 

 the nodes we have as many good vines as there were buds upon 

 the covered part of the cane. 



By no other method can as many vines be as certainly obtained 

 as by the spring layer, and the process is so simple that he who 

 has one vine may rapidly increase his stock. 



Grafting. — With no other fruit is grafting so uncertain of 

 success as with the grape vine. Various methods have been sug- 

 gested, but perhaps the one described below is the most certain. 

 In the fall, just before the ground freezes, take any strong stock 

 that you wish to graft; and, removing the soil from the roots, 

 cut the main cane off a few inches below the surface. Upon this 

 is to be practiced cleft-grafting. The stock is now split (if very 

 tough and gnarly a saw may be used to split it), and scions of one 

 or two buds are cut and inserted, as illustrated by Figs. 20 to 24, 

 Pages 23-24. After the wedge has been withdrawn, the soil is 

 pressed closely about the graft, no wax being used, but covering 

 it np to the top bud of the scion. Over this scion is placed an 

 an inverted small flower-pot, so that when the soil is removed in 

 the spring the scion may not be disturbed. 



The whole work is now covered with at least a foot of soil, 

 and as severe weather approaches, over this is thrown enough 

 litter to prevent the ground around the stock from freezing. In this 

 way, if the grafting is successful, a very strong growth will be made 

 the next season, and the second year a fine crop of fruit may be 

 expected. I have known a single biul placed in a stock less than 

 three-fourths of an inch in diameter to make a growth of two 

 canes over eight feet long the first season. This affords a good 

 way of testing new varieties, and is one of the most certain 

 methods of grafting the vine that I have tried, but I would not 

 count upon more than three successes in five trials. 



