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one end), and when the horse is ready harnessed, put it into his 

 mouth with the bit, bring one end over the head behind the ears, 

 run the loose end through the loop, and draw it quite tight — not 

 so tight, however, as would be necessary to make him stand still ; 

 you will have no difficulty in preventing his rearing or twisting. 

 Slacken and withdraw it when he is in the shafts. A few sjich 

 lessons will, it is said, effectually cure him of the habit. 



Or, put an old set of harness on him, and before you take him 

 near the carriage he is to be put to, strap his near foreleg up a la 

 Earey, and let him walk to it on three legs. If this does not succeed, 

 have a strap fastened from the off fore-fetlock through the ring of 

 the driving saddle, and when he rears pull the strap and let him 

 come down upon his nose. Use him very quietly, but be determined 

 and firm, and, of course, operate on soft ground to prevent broken 

 knees. 



Again : Treat the horse kindly and quietly, use an easy straight 

 curb-bit, taking off the curb, and buckle the reins on the cheek. 

 Harness the horse quietly, lead it out and place it before the 

 trap, in an open space, without being held ; lift up the shafts and 

 draw the trap carefully on, taking care to place the reins so that they 

 can be easily taken in hand without interfering with the animal's 

 mouth, or permitting it to know the reins have been touched, then 

 step quickly, but quietly, into the trap, leaving the horse's head 

 free, to start when and as it pleases, and do not check it suddenly, 

 but feel its mouth with a light touch and restrain it in the most 

 gentle and gradual manner to a walk, which continue until it is 

 perfectly settled, with the reins as loose as possible. 



SHOEING HORSES. 



Mr. W. Miller, in '• A Plain Treatise on Horse Shoeing," says: "You 

 must begin by taking off one of the old shoes, the other should 

 always be left on, for the horse to stand upon ; he is sure to stand 

 quieter upon a shod foot than he can upon a bare one ; and it will 

 prevent it breaking the crust. Eaise every one of the clenches with 

 the buffer, and, if the shoe will not then come off easily, loosen 

 some of the nails with the punch ; but never tear the shoe off by 

 main force ; it splits the crust, and widens the nail holes. The 

 shoe being off, you should rasp the edge of the hoof all round, and 

 take out any stubs that may be left in the crust. Then you must 

 pare out the foot. If the horse has a strong, upright foot, with 

 plenty of horn, you should shorten the toe, lower the heels and 

 crust, and cut out the dead horn from the sole, and also from the 



