Jan. 16, 1865.] 



♦ KNOWLEDGE 



43 



it up true, and, if necessary, joining two bosirds edge to edge 

 to form one of the reipired widili, this last operation, of 

 course, being performed before the board is finally " trued 

 up." In fastening the side boards, j--*, to the wall, of 

 course, all we had to do was to see that they were of the 

 proper height, width, and thickness, and to nail them to the 

 wall itself ; but, in the case of the division, </, wc shall have 

 a little more trouble iu fixing it, because, as wUl bo at 

 once seen, it stands edgeways to the wall. First we must 

 cut out the shape of the skirting-board (NA- h, Fig. o I) from 

 the back and bottom of our G ft. 11 in. ))lank, until the 

 hinder edge tits flat against the wall, ir, u: A screw must 

 pass through the front edge diagonally into the floor (see B, 

 Fig. 30, p. 480, of Vol. VI. of Kxo\YLEDt;E), while three 

 stout clasp nails driven through the top board, I, into the 

 upper edge of d, will make it all secure. The ends of 

 this top board must, of course, be secured to the side 

 boards, s, s, in a similar manner. The four shelves, 

 of 1-in. planking, 10^ in. wide (.s7/, $h. Fig. 31) are to be 

 fitted in precisely as were the bookshelves, whose manufac- 

 ture I described on p. 479 of the last volume. The space 

 beneath them and the floor is handy for boots, ttc. In the 

 right hand compartment, we nail round three sides of it the 

 board c, c, 5 in. wide, into which are glued the pegs, p, p,]>, 

 for hanging clothes on. As I am sujiposing that the 

 amat€ur is not yet in possession of a lathe, he will have to 

 buy these pegs ; but their cost is very small indeed at any 

 turner's. It will be noted that the boards, c, c, must be 



r O 



pa 



ft 



PC 



Fig. 35. 



" mitred " at the ends where they meet. So far, we Lave 

 fiUed our recess with shelves and pegs, but have, of course, 

 left the whole thing open to the room. We want, though, 

 to make a cupboard of it, and to this end must fit it with 

 two doors. Before reading what is about to follow, I 

 recommend the amateur carpenter to turn back to p. lo.j 

 of the Vlth Yolume of this paper, and refresh his memory 

 by a careful study of the directions for making the frame 

 of a screen, because we shall, to a c jnsiderable extent, repeat 

 what we did in that case. The frame,/, /(Figs. 33, 34, and 

 3-5) is of lA-in. stufi when planed up, and is 3 in. wide. It 

 is tenoned and morticed together at its two upper corners. 



and is screwed to the cdge.s of the boards, s a Obviou.sly, 

 these (like d) will have to be accurately c\it out at their 

 back bottom c"dges to fit over the skirting-board, and, like 

 (/, should be firmly attached to the floor, too, through their 

 front bottom edges, by diagonally-inserted screws. These 

 must be carefully countor.-junk, or wc shall not be able to 

 hang our doois. It will be observed that the outside 

 measurement of this frame is G ft. 2 in. by 4 ft. G in. ; its 

 inside measurement ."> ft. 1 1 in. by 4 ft. This last evidently 

 represents the onli^hh dimensions of the space immediately 

 to be filled by the jiair of doors, which we now proceed to 

 make. 



The making of this pair of doors differs in one or tw(j 

 respects from the construction of the screen-frame on 

 pp. 15.") and 15G of the last volume, and it is to elucidate 

 the dillerenco that I have drawn Fig. 3G. The three pre- 

 vious ones are all, as I have previously said, drawn to 

 scale. Fig. 3G is neither drawn to scale nor in perspective, 

 but as I can show the way in which a door is put together 

 better in this way than by any perspective view, and as 

 my object is to teach amateurs, and not to produce pretty 

 or arti.stic pictures, it must stand as it is. The " stiles " 

 and "rails" (s< and ;• Fig. 3G) are of U in. stufi", the 



Fig. 3G. 



panels {pa) of A-in. deal. The tenons ti on the rails are 

 cut as usual, about two-thirds of the width of the wood and 

 one-third of its thickness. One tenon only is needed at 

 eich end of the top and bottom rail.s, which are 3 in. wide, 

 like the stiles ; but the middle rails, which are G in. wide, 

 will need two tenons, as I have shown above, the corre- 

 sponding mortices being cut in the stiles. Before putting the 

 stiles and rails together, a groove must be planed orjcut on the 

 inside of each, as shown in the figures into which the panel 

 fits like a school-slate into its frame. The back edges of 

 the panels are sloped or bevelled 09" in order that they may 

 fit easily into the groove. The sketch shows the rails 

 morticed into the right-hand stile, and a panel partly 

 slid into its grooves, the left hand stile with its mortice- 

 holes and long panel-groove, and the left-hand ends of the 

 two rails being not yet put together. Everything being in 

 readiness, the tenons and mortices are well brushed with 

 thin, boiling-hot glue, and then the tenons are driven home 

 as rapidly as siay be, being, if needftil, slightly wedged 

 from the outside, where the fit is not very tight. When 

 the glue is thoroughly dry, the plane should be run lightly 

 and carefully over the outside edge of the frame. The 

 hardest job, by far, that the amateur has yet attempted, he 

 will find on the hanging of his two doors, for which he will 

 require two pairs of "butt" hinges, with the necessary 

 screws. The reader is recommended to study very care- 

 fully the hanging of any door in his own house, and to 

 remember that the doors he has just finished are to open 



