WINTER PRECAUTIONS 45 



tack on several thicknesses of soft cloth where the 

 sash will come in contact with the frame. The screws 

 will hold the sash firmly against this "packing," and 

 a tight fit will be the result. 



Of course windows treated in this way may be 

 said to be air tight, comparatively, and those who have 

 read what I have said about giving plants all the fresh 

 air possible may think that here we have contradiction 

 of advice. But because I urge making the window 

 at which the plants are kept as nearly air tight as 

 possible, it does not follow that we are not to give 

 the plants in them fresh air and plenty of it. For 

 some years past I have used a little device which 

 works very well. A tin pipe about two inches across, 

 with two bends or "elbows," admits as much air as the 

 plants in a large bay window require. This pipe runs 

 down between the window sash and the storm sash, 

 and the lower elbow projects through a hole in the 

 bottom bar of the storm sash, and is open to the 

 outside air. The upper elbow comes into the room 

 through a hole in the upper part of the window sash. 

 This is fitted with a cap, by which all air can be kept 

 out, if desired. When removed, there is a rush of cold 

 air into the pipe from outside. This stream of air 

 rises in the pipe and is discharged into the room near 

 the ceiling, therefore above the plants. The air in the 

 room is of course much warmer near the ceiling than 

 elsewhere, as heated air always rises, and the cold and 

 warm unite, and the chill is taken off the fresh air 

 before it reaches the plants below. In order to avoid 

 a draft from the room, it is necessary to have the open- 

 ing for the admission of cold air lower than the 

 opening for the discharge of it. If this is not provided 

 for a draft may be created which will take the warm 

 air out of your room instead of letting in fresh air. 

 In putting in such a pipe, be sure to see that the 



