86 HOME FLORICULTURE 



I find that in order to have good flowers from this 

 plant in the sitting room in winter one must take 

 especial pains with the plants in summer. I take the 

 old plants in June and break the roots apart. Leave 

 several "eyes," or growing points, to each plant. Set 

 in the open ground, in a light, rich, sandy soil. Soon 

 several shoots will appear. Let as many grow as you 

 think will be needed to give you a good-sized plant 

 in fall. After they have made a growth of a foot, 

 cut the tops off to induce branching. In this manner 

 you secure plenty of flowering surface for next winter's 

 crop of flowers. 



In September lift and pot your plants. Have the 

 compost rich, and see that it has a good proportion 

 of sharp sand in it. Set the plants in shade for two 

 or three weeks, watering well when potted. Do not 

 take inside until they seem thoroughly established in 

 their pots. Then give a sunny window, plenty of air 

 overhead, and a moderate amount of water. Great care 

 must be taken to prevent the red spider and aphis 

 from attacking them ; also the mealy bug. All these 

 insects seem to have an especial fondness for this plant. 

 In November the plants will begin to show flowers, 

 and if they are given a good cutting back occasionally, 

 and liquid manure is applied weekly, and they can 

 have a somewhat warm, but not hot, place to grow 

 in, they will give a steady succession of flowers all 

 through the season. 



There are several fine varieties. Some are a bril- 

 liant scarlet; others a soft rose color, while some are 

 pure white, and last year we had a sulphur-yellow 

 variety heralded in the catalogs. It was valuable only 

 as promising something better in that color by and 

 by. There are double and single sorts, both equally 

 desirable. For small bouquets, corsage decorations, 

 and the like, few flowers are superior. They have a 



