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CHAPTER XVII. 



COOKING OF SALMON, &c. 



I SHALL conclude these chapters with a few culinary 

 observations on the dressing of salmon, trout, and other 

 fresh-water fish. The method of cooking salmon on 

 Tweedside differs in many respects from that practised 

 elsewhere; but it is not, on this account, without its 

 recommendations, and by one who has enjoyed in per- 

 fection what is termed a fisherman's kettle, the Metro- 

 politan mode of dressing the king of fishes stands a 

 chance of being resolutely decried in future. Our 

 Border epicures, it is necessary to state, are in general 

 good judges of a proper fish. Unlike the inhabitants 

 of Leeds or Birmingham, they can distinguish at a 

 glance the kelt, spring-spawner, or bull-trout from the 

 clean or new-run salmon. They can pronounce also, 

 without hesitation, upon the length of time a fish has 

 been kept, whether taken from the sea or river ; and if 

 from the latter, how long ago it left the salt water. In 

 all these matters, I grant, they are not only well versed, 

 but somewhat fastidious, and regulate their cooking 

 accordingly. 



BOILING OF SALMON. It is essential that a salmon 

 intended for boiling should have been newly caught; 

 the fresher it can be procured the better, and a fish 

 transferred from the net or gaff-hook to the pan or 

 kettle, is always sure to give the most satisfaction. The 

 way of treating a salmon, under one or other of these 



