THE NIGER AND BENUE 13 



became very familiar. Outside was a large baobab- 

 tree, probably 1000 years old, which offered tempting- 

 shade when we wished to emerge from our frog- 

 frequented hut ; but some bees had made it their 

 home, and we were warned not to risk disturbing 

 them. There was also a hornet's nest in the roof of 

 the rest-house, but, in spite of two recent experiences 

 belying the statement, we were told they did not sting. 



Mr Hoist, of the Niger Company, made many ar- 

 rangements for our comfort, and kindly put two rooms 

 at our disposal in the store near by, for which luxury 

 we were truly grateful. 



The white men's quarters are nearly three miles back 

 from the river, looking on to beautiful hills, and beneath 

 lies a swamp that divides them from the native town 

 of Yola. The neighbourhood is still unsettled, but it is 

 the unfortunate traders who suffer. Two black mer- 

 chants had been recently murdered on the main road 

 from Yola to Maifoni, and had we wished to go there 

 direct, an escort would have been sent for our pro- 

 tection. As it was, we had only time to add a few 

 more boys to our staff before journeying on to Garua. 



Our retinue now consisted of a Hausa interpreter^ 

 who received 33s. a-month for wages, and of whom the 

 less said the better ; Mastaba,^ our headman, who 

 possessed every attribute but that of his calling, 

 namely, the power of management. We became 

 attached to him, and in later days he took advantage 

 of it, for when deputed to keep with me on the march, 

 he used often to ride up and tell me, " Massa say please 

 no go so quick," and I obediently hung back, to dis- 

 cover later that Mr Talbot had sent no such message, 



1 His name is properly Mustafa, but he Anglicised the pi'onunciation for 

 our benefit. 



